Ten years after the handover of Hong Kong by the British back to mainland China, this former British colony is still just as vibrant, free, and exuberant as ever. Despite the fears and sneers of some Britons who direly predicted that the former crown territory would go down the tubes as soon as Her Majesty’s officials left, Hong Kong has proven all of its critics wrong.
And now more than six years after 9/11, Hong Kong is becoming a major Asian destination for Arab and Saudi businessmen and tourists who find the ease of entry (Saudis do not need visas to enter as tourists) and the booming economy of next door mainland China too attractive to ignore. Indeed, Hong Kong Tourism Board figures show that arrivals from the Middle East have boomed from 120,822 in 2005 to 150,110 in 2006.
Visitors from Saudi Arabia alone grew from 9,348 in 2005 to 13,549 in 2006, a growth of 44.9 percent.
A culture of unbridled capitalism and a sense of adventure and risk have long kept Hong Kong unique and different from the rest of China. An agreement by Beijing to keep a separate system of laws and governance for Hong Kong for the next 90 years, has allowed this city to retain much of its original spunk and drive. Business still reigns supreme here, but for the nonbusiness visitor Hong Kong offers many attractions ranging from Disneyland for the kids, to shopping for unique Chinese clothes and housewares, to hiking in the green countryside of the New Territories surrounding the city.
Packages to Hong Kong
Cathay Pacific, the renowned Hong Kong carrier (www.cathaypacific.com, in Riyadh call Tel. 479-3232, Dhahran Tel. 887-2017, and Jeddah Tel. 665-3088), is trying to build on this new Saudi interest in China by offering four weekly nonstop flights from Riyadh to Hong Kong. This summer it is offering special packages which include roundtrip airfare and hotel accommodation starting from SR2,957 per person plus applicable taxes and surcharges.
The Peninsula Hotel
I visited Hong Kong last February as a guest of Cathay and stayed at the magnificent five-star Peninsula Hotel in Kowloon (Tel. 852-2920-2888, www.peninsula.com). Opened in 1928 by the Britons Ellis and Elly Kadoorie, two brothers of Iraqi-Jewish descent, the hotel has been a family business ever since. The intent of the brothers was to build the most luxurious hotel east of the Suez Canal, and they certainly succeeded. With 246 rooms and 54 suites, the Peninsula soon became the standard by which other luxury hotels were judged, what with its famous afternoon tea service in the lobby, and its discreet and highly efficient staff of bellboys, waiters, cooks and concierges who looked after the every need of guests.
I stayed in a huge one-bedroom suite that faced Hong Kong Bay and that had three televisions: One in the living room, one in the bedroom and one in the bathroom. It is in one of these rooms, Room 336 to be exact, that the surrender of Hong Kong to the Japanese during World War II was signed by Gen. C.M. Maltby on Dec. 25, 1941.
The hotel has many happier moments in its history such as when Hollywood star and legend Clark Gable stayed here in 1953 while he was filming “Soldier of Fortune.” Other famous guests have included Woolworths heiress Barbara Hutton who in 1963 stayed in the Marco Polo Suite, and much more recently the actor Tom Cruise.
The Peninsula has a slew of first-class restaurants and bars, but one to look out for in particular is the Philippe Starck designed Felix bar on the top floor of the hotel’s tower, where in the men’s restroom the urinals face a glass wall showcasing a stunning view of the harbor and nearby mountains.
When you have sampled all that the Peninsula has to offer, venture out and take the famous ferry boats across the bay to Hong Kong Island where a trip up the world-famous Peak Tram is a must. Originally built in 1888, the tramway is now 1.4 kilometers long and takes one up to the top of The Peak at 396 meters above sea level. Tickets for adults cost HK$22 single (SR10) or HK$33 return (SR15.80). Children pay around half that.
At the top of The Peak is a shopping complex several stories high, with a 360-degree observation deck where you can see all of the city spread out beneath you through the rising fog. Have lunch here or a snack at one of the many restaurants. I bought a lovely mounted black and white photograph by Laurence Lai of one of the last airplanes to land at the old Hong Kong airport in Kowloon for HK$380 (SR182).
If you still have time at The Peak, visit the Hong Kong branch of the famous Madame Tussaud’s wax museum (http://www.madame-tussauds.com.hk/), where along with life-like figures of Queen Elizabeth and Saddam Hussein, you can see unique ones of local Asian celebrities such as Jackie Chan and Michelle Yeoh.
Tickets for adults cost HK$115 each (SR55) on weekdays, and HK$65 (SR31) for children.
While you’re on this side of the bay make sure to visit the original Shanghai Tang department store located in the Pedder Building in Central (Tel. 852-2525-7333, www.shanghaitang.com). Started in 1994 by Chinese businessman David Tang Wang Cheung to showcase Chinese art and culture, the shop carries luxury clothing, accessories and gift items based on traditional Chinese designs but with a modern twist. I bought a beautiful filigreed sterling silver pen and brocade covered notebooks. Prices are not cheap ranging from $50 to several hundred dollars per item. Don’t miss their luxurious cashmere sweaters in bright colors.
If you go to Hong Kong Island on a Sunday you will perhaps be surprised to see the huge crowds of Filipino domestic helpers who gather there every weekend to spend their day off meeting friends, chatting and eating meals on every inch of sidewalk available to them.
Once you’re back on the Kowloon side of Hong Kong, don’t miss one of the many night markets where you can buy clothes, watches, DVDs, CDs and food at cheaper prices than the stores. You can even have your fortune read by one of the many fortune tellers who have booths here. But beware, vigorous haggling is the rule of thumb here, and all of those “designer” clothes and Mont Blanc pens are most certainly fakes made in China. If you happen to be in Hong Kong for Chinese New Year, you will most certainly be able to visit one of the many seasonal night markets which will be selling a lot of sweets and novelty items. There’s nothing much to buy here, but I went to one and found the exuberance of the youngsters selling silly toys both enjoyable and fun.
Disneyland Hong Kong
Before leaving Hong Kong, I would definitely recommend a one day visit to Disneyland Hong Kong (www.hongkongdisneyland.com) on Lantau Island. Opened on Sept. 12, 2005, the park is a smaller version of its behemoth American sister parks, and is easily accessible from the city center either by the purpose-built metro line or by taxi. As in other Disney parks, tickets are not cheap at HK$295 for adults off-peak (SR141) and HK$210 (SR100) for children. The prices rise during peak periods to HK$350 (SR167) per adult, and HK$250 (SR119) per child.
I thoroughly enjoyed the park, from the surfing Mickey Mouse fountain at the entrance, to the raucous Main Street parade and the many souvenir shops. I snapped up a small Mickey Mouse jelly bean-stuffed doll dressed in a Chinese silk outfit and Pluto key chains.
Helicopter Ride
To finish off your Hong Kong trip with a flourish, book a 15-minute helicopter tour from the roof of the Peninsula Hotel that will take you around the whole of the city, coastline and outlaying islands. The views from the twin-engined Aerospatiale Squirrel helicopter are spectacular, and it is only from the air that one realizes just how much green space surrounds the high buildings of the city itself.
