JEDDAH, 4 October 2007 — Ramadan in Saudi Arabia is the most forgiving when it comes to treating the holy month like an actual holiday; not every Muslim country alters its working hours to accommodate the season. In fact, many predominantly Islamic countries don’t make very many (if any) Ramadan accommodations.
What does this mean to Saudis living abroad?
“Egypt has a very similar atmosphere, yet there is no place like Saudi Arabia when it comes to the spirituality of this holy month of Ramadan,” said Abdul Majeed Kaki, a 24-year-old student in Cairo.
While Egypt and Gulf neighbors share values, culture and language, only Saudi Arabia seems to implement working hours and a general policy of tolerance that make life easier for fasters. The official working hours for Muslims — that is to say: most people in the Kingdom — is officially reduced to six hours. Non-Muslims are also generally welcomed and encouraged to participate in iftars (fast breaking meals) and sahoors (last night/early morning meals). People who work the evenings are generally expected to take off for an hour or so around sunset to break fast with loved ones or at the mosque. Taraweeh prayers (the nightly recitation of the Qur’an that is done during Ramadan) are also typically accommodated for night workers.
Students like Kaki say that growing up with the Ramadan schedule is nice, but can make the holy month more melancholy abroad, making them nostalgic for the Saudi version. Kaki also said that exams and assignment loads at his university in Egypt don’t change during the holy month.
“But whenever I find time I make sure to search for a mosque where the imam’s voice and reading is similar to ours back home to make me feel close to Allah, and to home,” he said.
Saudi missions abroad often try to lessen this blow to their expatriate citizens by hosting iftar parties. “This was something that has boosted our spirits considering we have no family here,” said Kaki.
Khaled Al-Harbi, 25, who is studying in Auckland, isn’t so lucky; he said that the closest Saudi mission is in Sydney. So he and his friends plan their own iftars at local restaurants or homes.
“We always meet whether at a restaurant or at one of the other Arab students’ homes where everyone brings something,” he said. “We’re thankful for the Indian and Malaysian restaurants (in Auckland) for their halal food and delivery.”
In Western countries, Saudis say they have a harder time feeling the spirit of Ramadan. Exacerbating the problem is when Ramadan falls during the times of year in the extreme Northern or Southern Hemispheres when the days are quite long. (In extreme latitudes, a local mosque will disseminate a fasting schedule, or individual Muslims will simply adhere to some other published schedule, such as the timings in their home country if they’re expatriates.)
“We aren’t pampered here like we are in Saudi Arabia,” said Maha Abdulilah, a 23-year-old student in Manchester, UK. “I try to fast but sometimes it is too hard considering waking up at 5 a.m. or 6 a.m. and waiting for the 8 p.m. sunset.”
Another Saudi woman who studied in the UK said this year she has teased her friends in Cardiff about the fact that their daily fast will be longer than hers in Jeddah. (They can tease back about 20 years from now when Ramadan will begin falling in the winter in Britain and the fasting days will be shorter.)
Faridah Lary, another student in London, said a sigh of relief overcomes her when she sees the Muslims who congregate on Edgware Road (a popular Arab district in London) more often in Ramadan.
“It is a district where Arabs meet always thus they go there trying to feel like they are home,” she said. “Supermarkets there too play a big role as they sell Ramadan traditional meals and desserts such as ‘basbusa’ and ‘baklava’ which brings on their appetite to eat,” said Lary.
These Arab areas are found even in Auckland as Al-Harbi said; there is a market call Khaibar. “It is a bit far but from time to time it is nice to go there and find Arabic food, meet new Arabs, and hear the prayers.”
Because prayers are something Muslims are advised to increase in this month, Lary said many Muslims go to mosques for Taraweeh prayers, particularly the one in Regents Park. “Though the stations become crowded, yet it is a peaceful scene that reminds me of home when we used to go and pray with my family members,” said Lary.
Being abroad also means these Muslims will have to test their patience and become strong in order to resist temptations such as music, food, and interacting with women or men informally.
“Back home, we don’t have to worry about meeting a girl or looking at one because they will all be covered properly, while here some of those who are not obliged to cover make it hard when we need to communicate,” Kaki said.
He said that many places hosts sahoor (late dinner) “supposedly” with a Ramadan theme but, “It is totally not in a Ramadan spirit; it is all about music, dancing and staying out late. It is simply like a night club but without alcohol and this is not how we are supposed to worship Allah in this month,” he said.
Moving to family gatherings in Ramadan, they all agreed this is what they miss the most while being abroad, not to mention doing Umrah and praying in Makkah during the last 10 days of the month. “Visiting the downtown area in Al-Balad with family and friends, chatting with old friendly faces who sell their goods only in this month, and attending Ramadan football tournaments — these are what make this month special,” said Al-Harbi. That is why if they can possibly get back to Jeddah in the last few days of the month, they will not hesitate.