Ever since Asia and Egypt were a major influence in the Art Deco movement in the late 1920’s and 1930’s, India became a source of inspiration for Western jewelry. During those years, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels used old Indian materials and stones to create unique jewelry pieces. In fact, Pierre Cartier’s first contact with Indian jewelry happened in 1901 when he made a necklace for Queen Alexandra, empress of India and wife of Edward VII, to wear with gowns sent to her by the wife of the viceroy of India. Cartier played a major role in introducing Indian design into the Western jewelry world. Nowadays, thanks to its growing importance as a global power India’s influence has also spread to clothes and design. India has never been so fashionable, and even the super rich are turning to its bespoke products, particularly jewelry.
Undoubtedly, the Mumbai-based Viren Bhagat is the most exclusive Indian jeweler. His superb pieces are sought by connoisseurs all around the world. The Bhagat Jewelry House creates no more than 70 pieces every year, and most of them sell, even before the sketches are complete. Bhagat insists that his clients visit their Mumbai office and secondly he refuses to customize:
“I request my clients not to add a leaf here or a flower there in my designs.”
The Gujarati jeweler whose ancestors hail from Lathi village insists that his jewelry is not ethnic. An intricate platinum choker studded with 150 rose-cut diamonds and thousands of small diamonds was inspired by an antique Indian anklet. The choker, like most of the pieces designed by Bhagat, is flexible and lightweight and definitely easier to wear than the anklet.
Bhagat is known for his patience and strong determination, he spent 10 years searching for 24 Burmese cabochon rubies weighing 146 carats. He also bought a unique 17th century Mogul jewel and spend the following three years buying 28 emerald beads that match the center stone in color, quality and shape:
“I love older stones, they have a different subtle charm, more like a whisper than a shout” says the fourth generation artist-jeweler who only works with old Indian gemstones and diamonds. Bhagat’s pieces are mainly sold through auction at Christies. These Mogul-inspired masterpieces of exquisite craftsmanship are works of art collected by international jewelry aficionados.
“You look at it, and you know Viren made it,” says Rahul Kadakia, head of jewelry at Christie’s New York, where a pair of Bhagat earrings composed of diamonds cut to resemble lotus petals came up for sale at the end of 2007. Estimated at $50,000, they sold for $85,000.
Considered by some experts to be the best jeweler in the world, Bhagat is happy with the new attitude to the art of the jewel: “There has been a very clear shift in the way in which people perceive my work. I now attract serious collectors and they buy my jewels as art objects, not as status symbols or pure physical adornment. Many collectors are toying with the idea of starting their own museums of contemporary jewelry. It is music to my ears.”
Mogul jewelry which dates back to the 16th through 18th centuries, it is characterized by enamel and gem set stones such as table or rose-cut diamonds. Women today are rediscovering the cutting of rose and cushion diamonds and traditional Indian shapes like bells and chandeliers have influenced contemporary designers. India has a unique culture of jewelry and its influence on design is even greater than the Romans, the Chinese and ancient Egypt. According to Rahul Kadakia, India’s resurgence particularly in jewelry “will be around for a long time to come”.
