Death is what Saqqara’s all about, the site of a cemetery for Memphis, the ancient capital of Egypt.
The flawless, sunny afternoon air is a sharp contrast to the squalid canal that creeps alongside us. The landscape is littered with date palm groves and farm houses as students shouldering backpacks slowly slog home from school.
There’s a calm in the air that’s a world away from the onslaught of Cairo’s frantic pace. And we’re only some 30km south of the Um Ad-Dunya (Mother of the world) — as Cairo’s righteously nicknamed.
As we edge closer, I look above the date palm frowns and spot a pyramid designed in steps. A rush of adrenaline gushes through me. It hits me. I’m about to see the first pyramid ever constructed in Egypt almost 5,000 years ago.
But the euphoria eases upon seeing two tour buses parked near the entrance, a sight it seems, that can’t be avoided while touring the ancient monuments of Egypt.
Hearing the Southern drawl of senior citizens from the US and high pitched French speakers eats away at the exotic atmosphere of the moment. Though, compared to the hordes of tourists at the Great Pyramids of Giza, this place looks downright empty. But it’s understandable, since most tourists who plan a trip to Egypt don’t conjure up the image of this single, cut-stone step pyramid.
Often when travelers plan a trip to Egypt, the first picture that comes to mind is of the Great Pyramids — one of the ancient wonders of the world — that reign over the Giza skyline. Little is heard of Saqqara and its Djoser Pyramid.
The brainchild of this Pharaonic feat was Imhotep, the first ever architect known by name, whose design was used later in the plethora of pyramids seen all over Egypt.
He was such a great architect that the ancient Egyptians began worshipping him after his death. Unfortunately, his tomb was lost in antiquity. But the pyramid he built for King Djoser still stands.
As I stand under the base of the Pyramid, the blazing Egyptian sun radiating down on me, the euphoria rushes back. The few crowds that I saw earlier haven’t reached the base of the Pyramid and it seems like I’m the only person here.
A thought comes to mind: This first ever built pyramid has passed through many dynasties, rulers, empires, wars and here I am staring at this testament of time. Being there in that arid landscape alone, I feel like I’ve become a part of that history.
Then the crowds show up and my moment alone is up. Lucky for me, this place is vast — scattered around are ancient tombs (some of which haven’t been discovered yet) and dilapidated pyramids. I continue to avoid the crowds, getting lost in this desert landscape.
Eventually I head for the cab where Ahmed is waiting to take me back to Cairo, glad that I decided not to opt for a group tour.
