Flavor of the drink: Very berry toot

But soon after the call for Asr prayer, with the orange orb slowly setting in the west, the square slowly begins to buzz. Varying shop lights in the market provide the glow for the impromptu traders who begin setting up their stalls for their daily business.
Be it pirated CDs set up on a sheet on the street or on a table, vegetables in a handcart or just a cart full of nuts — all jostle for space in this bustling spot in Riyadh where people browse for bargains.
As the silent square comes alive with the click-clacks of the tables being set up, or the squeaks of the trundling wheels that bring in various types of wares, one man stands out in the hustle and bustle of the night. And he goes about his business briskly and with a smile.
He is none other than Abdullah (Abu Fahd), a Palestinian toot (berry) hawker, who has carved a niche for himself in this particular spot by making a success of selling his cold berry juice to the populace who happen to be there.
He is making tradition buck custom-made drinks by bringing in a blast from the past, as he blends with ever-growing modernity, with traditional garb and drink that grabs one’s eye.
Wearing a waistcoat and baggy trousers that evoke memories of the Levant of the past, Abdullah means business, especially when the snout of the Afsoura (the Syrian Vat in which he carries his drink), comes out from under his shoulder as he serves his clientele with a ready smile.
What he does not know about microeconomics, Abdullah makes up for it with good public relations. He knows that to sell his product he has to connect with people, and he does that with a quick smile, a ready inquiry about the product and an extra glass for the kids if a family is taking his custom.
“Tha barid” (come cool yourself) is his catch call, as he works the area for over six hours on the days he makes his rounds. Though he is a regular in the area, Abdullah takes time off to replenish his stock and also make the drink in volumes.
“I get tired after carrying the load for these long hours, but I love doing it,” he said. The 45-kilo vat, strapped on his back with a belt around his waist carrying a cup holder and a nook to hold money, is only mounted when he is serving the drink.
When business is slow, he un-straps the vat and rests it on a table, indirectly advertising that the berry drink is available. People sighting the vat know that Abdullah is around, and when they mill around the table, Abdullah invariably materializes quickly to quench their ‘desires’.
Many of the customers who favor Abdullah’s custom are of high praise of the quality of the drink. A government official, named Murshid, said: “The drink is very good, and I make it a point when I’m in this area to drink ‘toot Shami’. During Ramadan it is a good drink to have and the flavor of Ramadan lingers with Abdullah providing us with the drink year-round.”
First time customer Abdul Aziz Al-Othaim said the quality is “very good” and better than the ones offered at other places, adding that he would return.
“What caught my eye was his dress, and the Afsoura on his back. His good demeanor is an added advantage. I’ll definitely come back,” Al-Othaim added.
Areej Mohammed was also all praise for the quality of the beverage on offer. “I’m a regular eater of grapes and berries; they’re good for the skin and have other medicinal attributes. I make it a point to drink ‘toot’ whenever I can and I find this drink really great,” she said.
The reason for the good press from his clientele is because Abdullah brings his berries from Syria. “I import them in large quantity and then process the berries (boiling and filtering) here for a period of time. I do not add any water or sugar to retain the original flavor. That’s why my business is brisk,” Abdullah said.
Abdullah said selling ‘toot Shami’ has been in the family. “In Palestine, my grandfather, father and uncles all were in this line of business. They imported the berries as they knew when the harvesting would be done and then prepared them in the same way I’m doing now,” he said, adding, “But business in Palestine is not possible.”
That’s why he came to Riyadh and has been in business for nearly two years now in the same area. His initial investment was about SR3,000 for the Afsoura, which is designed by Arab artisans in the Levant. “It is a copper vat that is either silver- or nickel-plated and the designs and motifs that the artisans do increase the costs,” he said.
Abdullah’s dream now is to open a place that shows history and heritage. “In the next two years I hope to carry on this business in a one-stop shop that would cater to ‘toot-lovers’ in an ambiance that shows our history.”