My first stop in India was Bombay, and home of the thriving Bollywood movie industry. Not that the glamour of the silver screen is something that strikes you on arrival at Bombay airport — more the foggy air, thick vegetation, and slightly aggressive auto-rickshaw drivers.
In India, however, you soon learn that first impressions are meaningless. The people are friendly, the streets bustling and the architecture incredible. Colonialism certainly left its mark on Bombay — a perfect example of this being the century-old Taj Mahal Palace and Tower Hotel. The old quarters of this hotel are beautiful. It’s right by the sea, and so looks out onto the harbor and amazingly, the Gateway of India. Outside you see that Bombay is a city of life. Driving through, the bustle, noise and smells of the city are overwhelming. It never seems to sleep. The pavement is full of peddlers with trays of snacks, souvenirs and wreaths of flowers. Everybody is enterprising. It’s probably one of the few places on earth where you can get your Xeroxing done at a little yellow booth on the pavement.
In the spirit of this, there is forever something to see in Bombay.
This time of year, there is a weeklong festival designed to raise money for the care and maintenance of the old colonial buildings. Shops, artists and all the locals take an active part in conserving their past; one aspect of which is the horse and carriage, known locally as a Victoria or Baggi. Riding in the Baggi is quite an experience. It takes you away from the grandeur of the city, and shows you the lives of those much less fortunate. Hordes of children and adults cram into shabby, insecure huts. Most of them are still smiling.
Bombay, being a large city, has attributes from a variety of states in India. Nothing is truly from Bombay. The food, for example, is more a potpourri of different regions. There are also Cottage Emporiums — large shops selling wonderful handicraft from all over India. There’s so much to see, I think it would take weeks before you could truly say you have experienced the city by the sea.
The Golden Triangle is one of the most popular tourist circuits in India. Comprised of Jaipur, Agra and Delhi, it gives true insight to the diversity and color of the region.
Jaipur — The Pink City — is the first on my tour of the triangle. The capital of Rajasthan, it’s steeped in history and culture.
The streets are filled with color, echoing the pink of the ancient buildings. People go about their business; cows meander through the traffic; and tourists, ever armed with guidebooks, flock to the palaces and forts — of which there are many.
First, and most associated with Jaipur, is the Amber Fort. Perched atop a wooded hill, it was the ancient capital of the Kachhawah rulers. One of the finest examples of Rajput architecture, it has its own natural air-conditioning, and its beautiful halls are really awe-inspiring.
To reach the fort, you can either walk, or more romantically, ride an elephant. It’s almost like a fairy tale, plodding up the slope. Of course, most fairy tales don’t tell you about the smell.
Back in the center of Jaipur, is City Palace. Its rather faded exterior is misleading, however. The true quarters of this palace are exquisite, and its three museums — textiles, art and armory — defy your imagination with their workmanship. Most fascinating is the textiles gallery, where you see the mind-boggling work that went into the clothing of the maharajas. Not only is the material dyed carefully, it’s also woven intricately with gold thread, gems, and beads.
Another popular attraction is Jantar Mantar, the open air observatory. Here stands the world’s largest sundial, as well as a series of complex and fascinating instruments.
In Europe, when someone buys an emerald necklace, the stone was more than likely polished in India. In Jaipur, you can visit some of the polishing workshops, and see how the world’s most valuable stones start out life — rough, and simple.
The most luxurious hotel in Jaipur is Rambagh Palace. Truly a palace, it was home to the rulers of Rajasthan until 1947. At the Rambagh, you get royal treatment. The rooms are stunning, and on arrival, you get a traditional welcome, along with a necklace of soft-scented rosebuds. Next stop: Agra. Famed throughout the world for the Taj Mahal, Agra survives on the tourism this monument of love brings.
The Taj Mahal was built by the Mogul Emperor Shah Jehan in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal. Unfortunately, pollution from traffic nearby has begun its effect on the white marble of the Taj, and now you can only approach the building by electric car or horse and carriage. Petrol driven cars are forbidden in the vicinity.
The Taj Mahal has stood, pristine, for over 360 years. As you step through the gate, you see how well it has stood the test of time. It’s beautiful. Surrounded by gardens and reflecting pools of water, it towers over the tourists, shining in the sunlight. It took 22 years, 20,000 workers and master craftsmen from all over the world to complete it, but it was worth it.
Because the marble is white, my guide tells me, the Taj reflects the quality of light in the sky, turning orange at sunrise, white at noon, and pink at sunset. It is at its most glorious, however, in full moonlight — and I was lucky enough to have a ticket to the exclusive viewing.
The security hassles are tremendous, with checks to rival any airports, but it’s worth it, for the Taj Mahal gleams brilliantly in the moonlight — or so I’m told. Be sure to check the weather report before you go, because you might end up staring, as I did, at the gray outline of the 7th wonder of the world for 20 minutes, simply because it’s cloudy.
The other main attraction at Agra is The Red Fort. The Fort is a magnificent specimen of Mogul architecture. It took several decades to build this extraordinary monument, and walking through the courts and gardens, you can see why. In the evenings there is a special light and sound show organized for tourists that is particularly spectacular. Delhi, the capital, is a mixture of two worlds: The Old and the New. You can wander through the winding streets of Old Delhi, with their Mogul past; or through the broad, leafy avenues of New Delhi. Beneath the chaotic rush of life is an undercurrent of peace. It is a city rich with diversity and culture.
Nowhere is this more apparent than in Delhi Haat. A bazaar of sorts, you can ramble between the stalls of handicrafts and food, while the world hurries past. The best part about this bazaar is that each stall is from a different state, giving you a taste of India at its best. There are hand woven shawls, carpets, lamps, woodwork and jewelry — and all good value. Each evening, entertainers from different regions in India perform dances or shows.
I would not have traded my journey through India for anything, despite the occasional pitfall. It’s amazing. The country itself is beautiful, but so are the people, and the way of life. It is the kind of place you never expect to leave the pages of a book, and it’s wonderful when it does.