Buenos Aires: Mix of elegance, hospitality

Literally translated as the city of fair winds, Buenos Aires would easily fit in the list of metropolitan cities that includes New York, Paris, and London. It blends an eclectic mix of elegant architecture with a hospitable people.
The capital of Argentina is known for being the birthplace of probably the most sensual and passionate dance, the tango. It is a city of contradictions between affluence and decay; its delicate squares and neighborhoods often show a few rough edges. Although it may feel like being in a European capital, the city somehow has its own touch. Its multifaceted character has given the metropolis a dozen of nicknames, and although a lot can be said with words, the only way to really grasp Buenos Aires is by visiting it.
The city is located in the southeast of South America on the western bank of Río de la Plata. With a population of almost 3 million, the capital is average in size. However, the Greater Buenos Aires conurbation is the third largest in South and Central America with a population of about 13 million. The city has a humid subtropical climate with cool winters and hot, humid summers. Given that it is located on the southern hemisphere, the seasons are opposite of those in the US, Europe and Asia, making March to November the best time to visit the city.
At first glance, the porteños — or people from the port, as the inhabitants are called — may look like a homogeneous people. In fact, the inhabitants will proudly tell you about the country of their ancestors, which is often Italy, Spain or Germany. The city, as such, is a mishmash of cultures, and its neighborhoods are just as multidimensional. Rather than having one center with uniform buildings and streets, Buenos Aires is a patchwork of neighborhoods that all have their own style and character.
The Microcentro or downtown Buenos Aires is a good starting point to explore the city. Many landmarks are located in or near this neighborhood, although some argue it does not breathe the genuine Buenos Aires spirit. A main place of interest in this area is the Plaza de Mayo (May Square) with the Casa Rosada — home to the Argentine government — the city’s main cathedral and the National Bank. Near it you’ll find Avenida 9 de Julio, a gigantic avenue that according to some is the widest street in the world and is sometimes nicknamed the Champs-Élysées of Buenos Aires. On the intersection with Avenido de Mayo you’ll find the controversial Don Quixote Statue, a gift from Spain in 1980 to celebrate Buenos Aires’ 400th anniversary, which many porteños find ugly, poorly located and irrelevant to the history of Argentina.
From here as well as from many other intersections, the Obelisco, an icon of the city, will loom before your eyes.
Another image of the city is the prestigious Teatro de Colón, the main opera house of the country, which is considered to be among the five best theaters in the world in terms of acoustics.
The Microcentro is also a good place to indulge in some genuine retail therapy. The pedestrian Florida Street has a wide variety of shops and street vendors. It measures almost 1.5 km from beginning to end.
Going south, you’ll get to the neighborhood of San Telmo, the oldest part of the city. The 19th century architecture of the houses has been well preserved. In addition, the municipality has worked hard to revive this area of the city, and they have certainly done a good job. San Telmo is now home to many low-budget hotels and hostels, but also to numerous antique shops, designer boutiques, restaurants and the prominent Sunday flee market. It is also famous for its tango parlors, although this seductive dance, typically accompanied by musicians on bandoneón and other melodic instruments, originated from the impoverished suburbs of Buenos Aires. With a bit of luck, you will find a couple dancing the tango on the streets, especially on the main public square, Plaza Dorrega.
For those more interested in the uptown part of the city of contrasts, Recoleta is the place to be. Walking in this neighborhood will make you understand why Buenos Aires is also referred to as the Paris of the South: Majestic, French neoclassic “châteaux” competing for elegance arise next to more practical rental properties. The neighborhood also boasts first-class restaurants and spacious green areas; one worth visiting is the Plaza Francia that is famous for its hippie street fair and an immense rubber tree with a diameter of 50 meters. However, the main reason tourists flock to this neighborhood is the famous Recoleta Cemetery. Large, elegant and abundantly decorated tombs provide a resting place for the affluent inhabitants of the city. Among the graves is that of the legendary Eva Duarte Perón, affectionately called Evita, wife of former President Perón.
North of Recoleta is the biggest district of Buenos Aires, Palermo. This barrio, or neighborhood, is filled with restaurants, cafes, shopping areas and clubs. It is subdivided into several parts that all have their own character. Alto Palermo, for instance, hosts a big shopping mall, whereas Palermo Soho is popular with young, middle-upper class Argentines and tourists alike, due to its fashionable designer boutiques, parillas (grill restaurants) and bars. Palermo Hollywood is also known for its concentration of trendy restaurants, cafés and clubs and its dynamic nightlife. On the northeast side of Palermo is the Bosques de Palermo, officially called Parque Tres de Febrero. It is the largest park in town and a perfect place to relax after a long day exploring the city, a shopping marathon, or after a thrilling night out.
Another place to relax — and frequented by the porteños on lazy Sunday afternoons — is the promenade of Puerto Madero neighborhood and the adjacent Reserva Ecológica. The reserve provides a peaceful escape from the noise of the city and attracts joggers, cyclists and bird watchers. The Puerto Madero promenade, on the other hand, is livelier, as families stroll along the water, children play with their kites and food carts sell the famous choripán, a spiced sausage placed between two pieces of bread and topped with chimichurri, a sauce made with olive oil, minced garlic, vinegar, salt, oregano, pepper, thyme, onions and parsley, although ingredients may vary from one place to another. Make sure to ask for “carne de vaca” (beef), as the sausage is sometimes made of pork or a mixture of the two.
Puerto Madero was the main port of Buenos Aires until the cargo ships became too large by the end of the 19th century and a new port was built further south. As a result, Puerto Madero fell into disuse, until in the 1990s, the government decided to urbanize the area. Local and foreign investors were drawn to the site to build new properties and renovate the warehouses into private universities, offices, luxurious hotels and restaurants, cinemas, and theaters. Nowadays, the area is one of the trendiest and most expensive in town, representing the city’s modern architecture and including prominent international hotel and restaurant chains. Salient detail: All streets in Puerto Madero are named after famous women, and the pedestrian Puente de la Mujer (Woman’s Bridge) has become a landmark due to its unique, asymmetrical design.
La Boca, in the southern part of the city, is an absolute must-see, especially for football lovers: The Boca Juniors football team — inherently associated with the legendary Argentine football player Diego Maradona — is based in this barrio. It is probably the most picturesque, colorful and lively neighborhood of the city. Tourists are recommended to remain in the busy tourist area, as La Boca is a poor working-class neighborhood and crime rates are high. However, the pedestrian “Caminito” street, full of arts and crafts, tango performers and restaurants, will charm every tourist.
Football aficionados should watch the Boca Juniors play a game in their stadium, La Bombonera, which has a capacity of 60,000. This is where the Argentine passionate temperament culminates, so don’t expect a quiet afternoon. If you prefer a more peaceful view of the Bombonera, take a tour of the stadium through the changing rooms, the viewers’ areas and the playing field when Boca is not playing.
An interesting excursion outside Buenos Aires is a full-day trip to a typical estancia (ranch) in the countryside, La Pampa, where visitors will be able to experience the lifestyle of the gauchos (cowboys) living there. Activities like horse riding, gauchos performing their skills, Argentinean folklore music and dance, and a typical asado (barbecue) are all part of this memorable daytrip away from the hustle and bustle of the city. It will surely refresh you before heading back to your day-to-day life on the other side of the globe, or before continuing to explore the wonderful sites this vast country has to offer.