With thousands of five-star Google ratings, I was surprised to find Tanjiah in Riyadh’s King Fahd district almost empty, even on a weeknight. After finishing a fantastic meal delivered with excellent service in an environment that could give Marrakesh’s riads a run for their money, I’m even more surprised.
Stepping in from the noise and commotion of Riyadh traffic, we were greeted with quintessential Moroccan zellij tilework adorning the floors and walls, ornamental lanterns hanging from the ceilings, cushions, and draped curtains creating enclaves of privacy for families. In no time at all, a bowl of harira soup was delivered to the table, full of meaty heartiness with a rich tomato base, perfectly complemented with a sweet side of chebakia pastry. The sweet-savory combination was an irresistible theme of my favorite Moroccan dishes, I realized, as I tucked into an excellent chicken pastilla pastry topped with spices and powdered sugar.
Any Moroccan chef worth their salt will surely be judged on the quality of their tajins, and two soon made their way to the table — lamb for myself and smoked kofta for my companion. The lamb, topped with prunes and cashews, was marvelously tender. The kofta lived up to its name and was too smoky for my liking.
Tanjiah, I have to admit, stepped in as a substitute for another Moroccan favorite in the city, which sadly shut its doors recently. Although the fare at this other establishment was nothing short of incredible, it seems that it couldn’t survive the fierce competition in the food-loving capital. Perhaps the tired decor and slow service didn’t make up for the stellar kitchen for most diners.
Tanjiah has none of these faults. Staff are friendly, service is quick, and the interior is impeccable (we sat beside a calm-inducing babbling fountain). I would encourage anyone to try it for their fix of Moroccan flavors.
