DUBAI: In the world’s most dynamic kitchens — from Paris to Riyadh — Chef Raffy Beylerian has spent more than 13 years refining a culinary philosophy that transcends borders, and he’s now brought that philosophy to Riyadh as head chef of Attaché, a new dining destination in the heart of the Diplomatic Quarter.
A graduate of the prestigious École de Cuisine Alain Ducasse in Paris, Beylerian honed his craft in legendary establishments including the three-Michelin-starred Plaza Athénée and La Bastide Saint-Antoine in Grasse.
His journey has taken him across continents, shaping a cuisine that blends classical French precision with the vibrant flavors of the Middle East, Africa, and beyond. Whether designing intricate tasting menus or leading high-end kitchen brigades, Beylerian’s approach is rooted in seasonality, sustainability, and an unwavering respect for ingredients.
Attache Riyadh. (Supplied)
And his latest stop hasn’t disappointed him. “What surprised me was the level all the restaurants were at here,” he tells Arab News. “I wasn’t expecting this when I first moved here, but once I started going around while doing my market research, I realized Saudi Arabia was a good place for food.”
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
When I couldn’t get something right, I’d get frustrated and demotivated. So you’d get demotivated when you didn’t get something right and then the head chef would tell you off and it doesn’t go well. But with time you realize that, well, you’re cooking every day, and every service is like a blank sheet — basically a fresh start — and, as chefs, we’re only as good as the last dish we put out.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Whatever you’re cooking, just get good produce. It’s really as simple as that. If the produce is good, whatever you’re gonna do at home, whether it’s something simple or something sophisticated, 50 percent of the work is already done.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish and why?
I would say salt, because salt is the major magnifier and it enhances everything. Apart from that, it would be something acidic, like lemon or lime.
When you go out to eat, do you critique the food at all?
It depends on the restaurant. If I’m going to somewhere that has a big reputation and we’re going there for the sake of trying it out — market research, like I said — then yes, I do end up critiquing it. But most of the time, on casual nights out or lunches and stuff, then no, I just try to enjoy it.
What’s the most common issue you find in other restaurants?
The seasoning.
What’s your favorite cuisine or dish to eat?
Mediterranean food or something close to my background and palate profile.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
Well, eggs are always in my fridge. They’re the easiest thing to do. And when they’re done right, they’re really unbeatable.
What customer request most annoys you?
When the guests try to change a dish completely. Because, honestly, we put a lot of work and effort in with the team to develop a dish, so for someone to come and just want to change it or flip it all over is a bit difficult for us.
As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian, or are you more laid back?
It’s a bit of both, so not really disciplinarian or laid back. The kitchens I was working in before were very disciplined — we were always shouting, throwing pots and pans and screaming and all that. So, I put it on myself not to be like that. But being completely laid back just doesn’t work in a kitchen. So it’s a bit of both.
Chef Raffy’s mushroom garden recipe
Chef Raffy’s mushroom garden. (Supplied)
For the mushroom purée
INGREDIENTS:
100g porcini mushroom; 100g shitake mushroom; 60g salted butter; 2g thyme; 2g sage; 450ml mushroom stock; 50g crème fraiche; 1g black pepper; 3g Maldon salt
INSTRUCTIONS:
Chop all the mushrooms into equal parts.
In a large saute pan add the chopped mushrooms into the foaming butter with the thyme and sage and sautee until soft.
Add a ladle of mushroom stock and reduce.
Finish with the crème fraiche and reduce again.
Transfer to a blender and mix until smooth.
For the pickled shimenji mushrooms
INGREDIENTS:
20g white shimenji mushroom; 100ml rice vinegar; 20g white sugar; 3g whole white pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
In a casserole add the rice vinegar, sugar and white pepper and bring to a boil.
Clean the shimenji mushroom and poach in the pickling juice for about 3 mins.
Transfer to a container for later use.
FINISHING:
In a deep plate, place the mushroom puree at the base.
Top with the fried shitake mushrooms and carpaccio (raw, thinly sliced) of white button mushroom.
Finish with the pickled shimenji, sage oil and dust the dry thyme powder on the white button mushroom.
