Damascenes retain hope of better things to come

Damascus is different from many Syrian cities in that its core was not directly hit by the war. This was not a revolutionary city. The Assad regime kept the capital under strict lock and key.

This poses challenges for Damascenes in the liberation era. In the post-Assad world, some view Damascenes almost as less worthy of any of the benefits of liberation. They had not fought for it. Some may have opposed it. It is one of the many fissures post-Assad Syria must contend with.

Social cohesion must be rebuilt. This will take considerable time and effort. After the pain and suffering of decades, this is a monumental task.

A new elite is emerging, as it always does in postwar environments, coalescing around the new authorities. This is more visible here in the capital. Those who transitioned from Idlib to Damascus have benefited from their revolutionary fighting credentials and proximity to the new authorities.

At first glance, the capital is buzzing. The streets are gridlocked with traffic; new cars hinting at new wealth. The cafes hum with customers. Yet one thing stands out — the economic struggles are real and painful. The cost of living is astronomic. Even sending kids to school on buses is a major expenditure. Electricity, while available, keeps on rising in price. There is an impressive array of solar panels over the city and in the more salubrious areas, while electric car charging ports are available.

If the new authorities have one major task it is economic. The Syrian economy grew by just 1 percent in 2025, at a time when reconstruction costs are estimated to be more than $200 billion. New deals with other states, such as the deal with Iraq to rehabilitate the Kirkuk-Baniyas oil pipeline, bring long-term hope. It also requires substantive economic reforms and transparency to facilitate foreign investment. Further sanctions relief will help.

Assessing how many tourists are returning to Damascus is tough. This sector was beginning to take off before 2011. In the old city, boutique hotels and restaurants in stunning houses had been done up and opened. Syria’s extraordinary range of historical treasures was being discovered by the outside world. To the extent there are tourists today, they are mainly regional.

At first glance, the capital is buzzing. Yet one thing stands out — the economic struggles are real and painful.

Chris Doyle

The head of the Umayyad Mosque told me that many Muslim tourists have been coming, notably from places like Turkiye. Americans and Europeans are less visible but, if sanctions are fully lifted and the security situation improves, shopkeepers hope that their premises will once again buzz with non-Arab customers.

The reopening of Damascus airport served to end the city’s isolation from the outside world. All air corridors had officially reopened by April. About 15 regional airlines now fly there. Major international ones may join in time.

The housing sector is under strain, not least due to the return of many Syrian refugees and displaced persons. About 1.2 million refugees returned to the country in 2025. Many have headed to Damascus. About 2 million internally displaced have also returned to their place of origin, though often not their homes, which have been destroyed.

Security and external aggression fears abound. A couple of bombs in Damascus in early July highlighted this. Israel presses forward in the south. Driving along a main highway in the city, one can clearly see the Iranian consulate building the Israelis bombed in 2024, one of many reminders of how vulnerable the city is.

Syria will not be immune from further war between the US and Iran. It will force prices up at a time when ordinary Syrians are struggling to afford even the basics.

The mood is mixed. Some Damascenes are quietly optimistic about the long term. Many embrace a climate of freedom of expression never seen under the heavy hands of the Assads. It is refreshing, as a long-term visitor, to hear genuine and open discussions on political issues. Nobody fears criticizing the leadership if they wish. When I first visited Damascus in 1990, pictures of Hafez Assad adorned everything from motorcycles to water cylinders. No such political iconography taunts you now.

Damascus claims to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on the planet. It is going nowhere. Damascenes are toughing out this period of transition in the expectation of better things to come. It will be a bumpy ride. Political, economic and social issues abound, which should be expected after decades of tyranny. For now, what is on most people’s mind is economic survival. But never forget that is a significant step forward from fighting for one’s life.

• Chris Doyle is director of the Council for Arab-British Understanding in London.

X: @Doylech