The Land of Two Seas

Author: 
Christine McNeil
Publication Date: 
Sat, 2005-10-15 03:00

With a name like the land of two seas, who can resist a visit to Bahrain. Blessed with a remarkable number of natural springs and an abundance of beautiful scenery, Saudi Arabia’s more liberal neighbor makes for the perfect destination for someone looking for a relaxing vacation and some cultural indulgences all in one place, as Christine McNeil discovered.

WHILE most travelers stick to well known Arabian destinations, a much over looked part of the Arabian Gulf is Bahrain. I was so taken by tales of this mysterious archipelago of 30 islands that I decided to dedicate two days to discovering what Bahrain has to offer.

As I had a limited amount of time, my best bet to avoid the usual bland combination of sight seeing and tourist activities was to hire a car and driver from Hertz Bahrain. This proved to be a very easy and affordable procedure, and as I was introduced to my driver, a plump and jolly local man named Hassan, I knew I had done the right thing.

Hassan spoke impeccable English that he spoke with an endearing accent, and as we started out on our adventure, he gave me a brief history of Bahrain. The word Bahrain literally means two seas. It refers to the natural springs of water rising from beneath the sea that are used by the country’s famous pearl divers.

Bahrain has a rich heritage and culture revealed in its museums, archaeological sites, handicraft centers and preserved structures. There are landmarks of a civilization which dates back 5,000 years, when Bahrain was known as the Island of a Million Palm Trees, ancient crafts of dhow building, basket weaving, pottery and cloth weaving are still practiced today.

Just listening to the history of the culture as told by a local was enough to make me even more anxious to begin my adventure, and in the distance I could see what Hassan later told me was Arad Fort. Due to the fact that it was in such close proximity to the airport, Hassan suggested we head straight for it, and I happily agreed.

As the car pulled up near the Arad Fort, Hassan explained that the fort had undergone extensive restoration, and is now illuminated at night, making it a magnificent sight to behold. The Fort is a great example of 16th century Arabic construction, and was named after Aradus, the old name of Muharraq Island; where the fort is located.

Arad Fort was built between the end of the 15th century and the early 16th century, and has a military significance given its strategic location, which provided it with deep sea nearby, nowadays known as Arad Bay.

In the early 16th century the Portuguese occupied Bahrain and used the fort as a military garrison to confront local opposition and the Ottoman interference aimed at restoring Bahrain to the Ottoman Empire. Later in the 1800’s, Omanis conquered Bahrain and used Arad fort as a headquarters for their rule and military command. The Fort is in the shape of a square, with domineering control towers in each corner, in addition to upper passages linking these towers through turrets for soldiers to aim through.

A surrounding trench is fed with water from a well. Hassan explained that many battles were fought here, and history was embedded in the very grounds we were standing on.

Before heading to our next stop, Hassan explained that Bahrain also contains some very old remains of temples. The Barbar temple, where we were going, was unique in that it is actually three different temples built on top of one another. The oldest is thought to have been built 3000 BC, and is dedicated to Enki.

As we were taken around the site our guide told us that the temple was built on a spring of fresh water. The spring, the most vital part of the temple, could be reached by stairs.

While our guide explained the different functions of the sites of the temple, I became increasingly aware of how important freshwater must have been 5000 years ago in the hot and dry climate of Bahrain, and more so after walking 25 minutes to the temple of Ad-Dhiraz and the well of Ein Umin Al Sojoor which actually contained water of very unhealthy colors.

For me it was easy enough to buy an occasional bottle of water, but I felt admiration for the people who survived these conditions so many years ago.

As the day quickly turned into night, the long flight to this enigmatic country and the hike around the Arad Fort and the Barbar Temple were beginning to take their toll on me, and I decided to call it a day.

The next morning Hassan was punctually waiting for me in the hotel lobby at 8 a.m., and even at this early hour the city was bustling with activity. We decided to escape the hustle of the modern Arabian Gulf State’s capitol, where cars race by high rise buildings and there is little to remind you of the fact that you are in an Arab county, and headed towards the Souk.

Here the pace is slower; market vendors wait patiently for customers, people walk around leisurely, thoroughly examining the goods on display.

A walk around the Souk is worthwhile, even if you are not looking for anything to buy. From the artistically displayed colorful spices waiting for a buyer, to the endless rows of brightly colored clothes, mountains of traditional kitchen ware, and dimly lit cafés. The Souk offers something different at each turn, whether a new aroma, or glorious array of colors splashed across a beautiful fabric, stepping into the Souk is like stepping into another world.

After spending the majority of the day at the Souk, and purchasing presents for friends and family and a few indulgences for myself, I enjoyed a quiet lunch at one of the beautiful cafés, where I was able to take in the full impact of the charming Bahraini market.

Later, we loaded my purchases into the car, and Hassan headed for the Sheikh Salman road. I could clearly see our next destination as we drove along the road. The twin minarets of the ancient Al-Khamis Mosque were clearly identifiable as they proudly stood in the distance, and as we drew nearer I couldn’t help but feel an overwhelming sense of exhilaration.

The mosque is considered to be one of the oldest relics of Islam in the region; it is believed to have been built in the year 717 AD. The two identical opposing minarets are built in traditional Islamic style and stand at 25 meters high, one on the eastern side and the other on the western side.

During the sixth Hijra century (twelfth Gregorian history), Prince Al Uyooni Abu Sinan expanded the beautiful mosque and built the first minaret. In the period between 1400 and 1600 AD, the second minaret was added. All that was left from the first mosque, which is believed to date back to the Umayyad Period, was the Qibla wall that was held in high respect and therefore not demolished.

Our last stop of the day would prove to be an enchanting one; The Tree of Life. Standing alone in the desert about two kilometers from the Jebel Dukhan, this flourishing tree provides the only shade from the heat of the desert sun. Although I had heard the legends, nothing could have prepared me for my first sight of the giant 400-year-old tree. The Tree of Life’s source of water remains a mystery, even today.

Unfortunately it was already quite late in the evening, and I needed to get back to the hotel and pack, my journey in Bahrain was coming to an end. But the next morning I knew there was one last thing I had to do before my late afternoon flight.

History would suggest that diving was probably born in and around the waters of Bahrain. Recorded as far back as 5000 years ago, pearl diving has been Bahrain’s heritage for millennia.

Today the largest oyster beds of their kind in the world continue to flourish, and Hassan had warned me not to leave Bahrain without experiencing diving in the beautiful warm shallow waters surrounding it. I took his advice.

With water temperatures ranging from 34C in the summer to 20C in the winter, Bahrain’s waters offer comfortable diving conditions all year round. Up to 30 species of coral and an excess of 200 species of fish can be found. Clown fish, tiger fish, surgeon fish, turtles, rays, and even whale sharks, are just a few of the species I was able to see while on my dive.

My underwater adventure had to come to an abrupt end as I realized I would be late for my flight. With his usual cheerful demeanor, Hassan was in the hotel lobby waiting to take me to the airport. On the relaxing drive, I was able to reflect on the past two days, all the beautiful sites, and the glorious history of the culture behind them, I realized how sad I was to leave Bahrain.

Travelers can obtain more information about Hertz Bahrain and the services it offers by calling (+973) 17 321358 or Faxing (+973) 17 321358 or emailing [email protected].

For more information on Bahrain visit:

http://www.bahraintourism.com

Main category: 
Old Categories: