Siwan embroidery has made its way into the select world of Italian haute couture. Italian fashion designers have discovered the intricate beauty of Siwan embroidery. Its exquisite dainty stitch and its floral patterns have brought a refreshing look to traditional garments such as the ubiquitous jean trousers or a simple white cotton dress.
The little known oasis of Siwa, an island of palm groves nestled in the Western desert of Egypt, has also become one of the most exclusive holiday destinations. During their recent visit to Egypt, Prince Charles and Camilla visited Siwa and stayed at Adrere Amellal, one of the world’s most beautiful eco-lodge. Camilla, like all previous guests, was attracted by the gorgeous and trendy Siwan hand embroidered garments and accessories. She herself bought embroidered shawls and some original silver bracelets adorned with pieces of hand-embroidered jeans fabric.
So what is the secret behind Siwa’s success? The rich and famous are coming for a unique vacation and its hand embroidery adorns some of Italy’s most famous designer clothes. Ermano Scervino has been using Siwan embroidery since 2003. Furthermore, exclusive Siwan embroidered clothes; shoes, bags and jewelry are now sold in Rome, Sienna, Milan, Hamburg, Megeve, Saint-Tropez and New York.
Siwa has a lot to offer because two people, Mounir Neamatalla and his sister Laila have been instrumental in launching Siwa on the global market. Mounir Neamatalla unsurprisingly has just been named one of the most enterprising people in Egypt. As President of EQI, Environmental Quality International, he has set up a successful project in Siwa involving more than a hundred Siwan families in several community projects including the celebrated Adrere Amellal eco-lodge in producing luxurious and trendy handicraft as well as organic products. Mounir Neamatalla thinks that we should pay as much attention to preserve our culture and heritage as we do to preserve our environment.
His sister Laila is behind the incredible success of the Siwan embroidery and its forceful entry into the exclusive world of haute couture. This traditional craft was mainly practiced by a dwindling number of elderly women. Laila not only trained younger women but has also injected a new life into the ancestral patterns. Known for her legendary refined taste and creativity, she introduced new colors and reinvented new designs: “Traditionally Siwi women use only five basic colors: red, green, black, orange and yellow which reminds them of the dates and olives Siwa has been famous for throughout history. I brought in new colors. We dye our yarn and create our own colors. I follow fashion trends very closely so we are able to create a highly fashionable hand-made product inspired by Siwan traditional embroidery. I am trying to adapt traditional patterns and techniques to the needs and taste of a modern woman. A woman wearing clothes inspired by our Siwan traditions should not feel that she is disguised but rather that she is wearing trendy clothes,” explains Laila.
The initial workforce numbered 50 Siwi women, nowadays Laila Neamatalla employs 150 women and a further 120 are being trained. The designs created by the Ermanno Scervino couture house are sent to Siwa where they are reinterpreted by the embroiderers.
“The Siwi women have to participate in the creative process and reinvent the design according to their ancestral artistic traditions. This is a vital part of the production process. The women have to put their heart and soul into their work. This is what makes our handmade embroidered products so valuable and original. A handmade product exudes a tremendous energy because it has been touched by human hands. We say sometimes that certain objects have a soul and that is because these objects have been made by a human being. Only a human being has a soul,” says Laila.
The art of needlework is as old as civilization itself. For women that traditionally remained at home embroidery was an expression of the innate human yearning for beauty and art. This creative ad expressive craft is considered to be one step from drawing. The ancient Romans described embroidery as ‘painting with a needle’.
It is wonderfully gratifying to see how concerted efforts can keep traditional embroidery skills alive. It is also encouraging to see that when traditional techniques and patterns are reinvented and adapted to fashionable garments and accessories, trendy women all over the world are ready to pay the price for something exclusive and beautiful.
It’s also a relief and a joy to witness a genuine interest in handmade embroidery, which is a veritable form of art. Buying beautifully hand-embroidered garments not only empowers poor women but it also helps them enjoy the conveniences of modern life without giving up their ancestral traditions that are a part of our world’s cultural heritage.
