NEW Zealand-born Peter Loughlin and his French wife, Mireille, opened the first haute couture house in the United Arab Emirates in 1989 with their local partner, Ali Saeed Albwardy. The House of Arushi is now considered one of the most prestigious labels in the Gulf.
Wealth combined with a taste for the latest fashion and a penchant for exclusivity has turned the Middle East and the Gulf countries, in particular, into a lucrative market for haute couture and designer brands. “In fact, the clientele of the region with their tradition of celebrating in grand style on numerous occasions are now the major customers of such houses and will continue into the next generation which will continue the same life style,” Loughlin says.
Since its founding, the House of Arushi has specialized in creating haute couture wedding dresses and evening gowns. It traditionally presents a collection of ‘henna’ and wedding dresses every year in April at the Bridal Exhibition in Dubai.
Loughlin acknowledges that bridal trends are territorial. As the USA differs from Europe so does the Middle East differ from the rest of the world. Arushi caters to a discerning Middle Eastern clientele requiring a dress which is both grand and exclusive. “Presently our silhouette is soft and layered with lace, tulle, chiffon and organza. The cuts are modern, sleeveless, translucent and seductively romantic. The embroidery is refined yet rich and the use of crystals is a must, “ he explains.
Prices for a haute couture dress range from $6,000 to $16,000. As a rule, the House of Arushi never talks about its private commissions but Loughlin acknowledges that many members of the Middle Eastern ruling families are among their prestigious clientele.
Choosing an haute couture wedding dress is a unique experience. The House of Arushi receives clients in private salons. AT the first appointment, the designer meets the client to gather details about her profile and personal preferences. The information is then used to create a portfolio of designs which are then discussed with the future bride. Several appointments may be required before a final decision is made. Many individuals are involved in the creation of a haute couture wedding dress and several fittings will be required before the wedding dress is ready to be worn.
Peter Loughlin is particularly proud of the house’s high quality embroidery which has become a trademark. Arabian women’s love of color has always extended to the use of sequins, applied glitter, beadwork and appliquéd patches which end up highly embroidered dresses. The trend has not changed in the Gulf. Moreover, recent years have seen a growing demand in developed countries for high quality embroidery at reasonable prices. To satisfy the increasing demand for customized embroidery, Loughlin decided to set up a specialized atelier guaranteeing a consistent supply of embroidery throughout the year. These embroidered segments are then exported to designers in the US, Canada, New Zealand and Australia.
