Haj Reflections Day Three: Pilgrims Without Permits Have a Tough Time

Author: 
Siraj Wahab
Publication Date: 
Thu, 2007-12-20 03:00

MINA, 20 December 2007 — The weather was pleasant last night. Not extremely cold like last year. Being at Muzdalifah was very challenging then but this year, the pilgrims, having prayed on Tuesday under a blistering sun at Arafat, spent the night at Muzdalifah in relative ease. Under a starry sky they collected pebbles so they could stone Jamrat Al-Aqaba in Mina. In the past, the Jamrat Bridge created problems for the pilgrims and dropped baggage often led to injuries and sometimes deaths.

As was mentioned earlier, the bridge has now been converted into a huge complex with multiple entry and exit points. Previously, all the pilgrims came straight to the bridge. This year, however, a new plan was put into effect in which security forces at the foot of the complex take the pilgrims’ baggage before they arrive to perform the ritual of stoning the devil.

No pilgrim was allowed to take baggage to the bridge and what once was dangerous became orderly and without significant incident. This is not to say that pilgrims were happy. They were upset because they did not want to part with their bags. But as was clarified by security officials later these are pilgrims without permits and therefore have no accommodation facilities in Mina. And so they move from Point A to Point B bag and baggage creating problems for everybody.

* * *

During the day the pilgrims were fatigued, having had little sleep for two days, so they were not in the best of mental or physical condition. Even young men seemed completely exhausted after the stoning. Many pilgrims had it in mind to complete the stoning as quickly as possible so they could perform the sacrifice, shave their heads, bathe, change clothes and relax. This is the rush that leads to disaster.

But it doesn’t have to be that way. Islamic scholars in the Kingdom have stated that it is acceptable to stone the Jamrat throughout the entire day. In reality then, there is no need to hurry, pushing and shoving to complete the ritual. People must learn to wait. Pilgrims forget that their safety and the safety of all others at the Haj is of greater importance than any ritual.

* * *

However, as the shadows lengthened on Mina, people generally seemed to be in a cheerful mood. The pilgrims are happy that they have completed this most important of rituals. Everywhere you go, you see pilgrims hugging each other, smiling and scratching their bald heads and rubbing their palms across what was once their hair. They socialize and meet fellow hajis from around the world. Then they call back home to announce their success. “Mabrouk” is an oft-heard word at this time.

* * *

People who have performed Haj in other years say that they were concerned about how the Saudi authorities would manage the event in the future. Thanks to this year’s marvelous arrangement, all those fears have been put aside. While one additional floor was added to the Jamrat Bridge, more ramps are to be added in the future. Experts at the South Asian Establishment for Pilgrims say this work must be completed rapidly because they expect increasing numbers of pilgrims to arrive in Mina in the next few years.

* * *

This year there was a unique exercise undertaken in an attempt to avoid a stampede. It was decided by the Haj Ministry to assign specific time slots to pilgrims of various nationalities during which they would perform the stoning ritual.

The mutawwifs (the guides) were supposed to inform the pilgrims to approach the Jamrat area only within their allotted time. Such a plan was impractical and impossible to enforce. The mutawwifs could not prevent the pilgrims from moving forward before the specified time. Many pilgrims insisted on stoning Jamrat Al-Aqaba seven times between sunrise and midday and they refused to follow any other plan.

* * *

All the pilgrims who have performed Haj before that this diarist has spoken to are overwhelmed by the changes that have taken place over the last two decades in the two holy cities. They are amazed at the road network — often winding and at times through a series of tunnels — and the smooth flow of pilgrims from their countries into Makkah, Madinah, Mina and Arafat. “Everything is very well-organized. Come to think of it, managing over two million people year after year is — and always will be — a logistical challenge. The Saudis have not only measured up to it but have done an excellent job,” said an American pilgrim.

* * *

Nations outside Saudi Arabia are doing more to educate their Muslim citizens who are performing Haj — and this has been very helpful. The efforts of the Indonesians and the Malaysians stand out.

Pilgrims from those countries are very well organized and have obviously received much instruction on how to perform Haj, focusing on both the spiritual and practical aspects. They have religious guides with them. Their guides keep them engaged in prayer and in directing their minds toward making the most of their time at Mina and Arafat. They walk together in tight groups, with the strongest pilgrims on the outside and the weakest at the center. They take small steps and move forward as one. This helps to keep anyone from getting lost or injured.

* * *

Despite the babble of many languages, Arabic stands out here at Mina. Some of the pilgrims have been in the Kingdom for weeks and they have picked up useful Arabic words, which they use with delight. “Shoya, shoya” (easy, easy), “Sabr ya haji” (patience oh! pilgrim), and “Ya haji tareek” (pilgrim, please give way) are just a few of the Arabic phrases that the pilgrims say to each other and all seem to understand.

These phrases are used in a very lighthearted manner and seem to dispel tension, especially in crowds.

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