One of the great hidden secrets of Egypt is Alexandria: Arab League’s Capital of Arab Tourism 2010. This is the main city of the “White Mediterranean,” situated between a strip of wonderful blue skies and impeccable beaches, said a guide from the Egyptian Tourist Authority to a large media group from Saudi Arabia and other Gulf states. The Arab League has bestowed its inaugural annual tourism capital status on this city.
“What Alexandria offers most of all is the chance to have a defining experience, one that you will take away and always remember, a story you will recount to your family and friends,” said Mahmoud Moheddin. And as we are conducted around the city, we get familiarized with its culture, history and the sea, apart of course from its range of eateries and shopping areas.
“Eating fish is what Alexandria is all about when it comes to culinary experiences of the highest order,” said Samy Mahmoud, undersecretary and head of the international tourism sector at Egyptian Tourist Authority (ETA).
The Mediterranean is called the White Sea in Arabic as opposed to the Red Sea on the other end of the Suez Canal. The Red Sea isn’t red nor the White Sea white, but the names have stuck, says Mahmoud. This is the place for those seeking a lasting holiday experience with a wide and attractive variety of tourist spots, from the greatest library in the world to exploring the ancient Roman Amphitheater, Catacombs, the nearby El-Alamein battlefields and snorkeling the beaches of Marsa Matrouh. The Jewelry Museum, Mahmoud Said Modern Art Museum, Pompey’s Pillar, Abu Sir — the ancient Roman site — and the ruins at Canopus are among many other spots that will allure a visitor. Reaching there a week ago for a conference of the Arab Ministers of Tourism from Cairo, involved a 220 km coach drive that was pleasant, thanks to perfect summer weather. Alexandria is unique in its weather with sea breezes in the summer and cooler temperatures in the winter. There is little agriculture on a mass scale on the northern coast and there are no major industrial zones or polluting factories, which is reflected in the pristine bird and sea life.
Founded by Alexander the Great in 331 B.C., Alexandria was not a natural harbor but was made one by joining the island of Pharos with the mainland to make a double bay perfect for sheltering from any storms the Mediterranean could throw at the city. Alexander wanted it to be a “megalopolis,” a model city larger than any. The streets were 30 meters wide (unheard of at that time) and the walls of the city extended 15 km — truly a marvel. When Alexander died, his successor and childhood friend, Ptolemy, eventually settled in Alexandria and it became the capital of the Greek Empire. “From this moment onward, the city became famed throughout the known world,” said Riham Wahid, international PR director at ETA.
Alexandria has long been an inspiration to writers and artists. One can follow the writers and artists’ trail to learn and experience the lives of such eminent men as E.M. Forster, Constantine Cavafy and Lawrence Durrell. One of the great poets of the 20th century, Cavafy was Greek by descent, but Egyptian by adoption.
The Cleopatra Trail shows how Cleopatra lived and died on the White Mediterranean, while winning the hearts of two of the most powerful men in the world along the way — Julius Caesar and Mark Anthony. The last Queen of Egypt, Cleopatra’s palace was in Alexandria as was her mausoleum. Her favorite place to visit was Paraetonium, the old name for Marsa Matrouh. Ruins of her villa — behind the old Governor’s palace — still exist.
The Alexander Trail follows the route of Alexander the Great, starting at Pharos Island and ending in the Siwa Oasis. There are supposed sites of Alexander’s tomb at El-Nabi Daniel Mosque and Silsileh where he prepared himself to cross the Siwa desert before taking a trip to Marsa Matrouh,
Alexandria has a lot of culture worth seeing. The Jewelry Museum and the Museum of Fine arts are definitely worth a visit. The Royal Jewelry Museum is housed in an extravagant villa owned by the first ruler of modern Egypt, Mohamed Ali’s granddaughter, Princess Fatima El-Zaharaa. On display are King Farouk’s gold chess set, Mohamed Ali’s diamond encrusted snuffbox, a platinum crown set with 2,159 brilliantly cut diamonds and even a set of royal gardening tools inlaid with yet more diamonds. The lower galleries in the mansion display stained glass cameos of courtly love set in idealized 18th century France. There is also a naval museum in Fort Qaitbey and a marine biology museum with displays and exhibits about fish and animals found in the area.
One can marvel at the power of the written word at Bibliotheca Alexandrina, which is the city’s premier cultural wonder. Paying homage to its predecessor, the Great Library of Alexandria, the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, opened in 2002 near the site of the old library that burned down in ancient times. The space-age planetarium and a statue garden dominate the grounds of the library complex, described as the world’s biggest. The complex celebrates the city’s long history of culture and scholarship with four museums showcasing antiquities, manuscripts, the history of former President, Anwar Sadat, and the history of science. It also displays 15 permanent art exhibitions on topics ranging from the art of printing to medieval Arab-Muslim scientific instruments.
A number of visitors were seen reading and working under natural light at the library, whose interior is an expansive multi-tiered space lit by skylights. The building can hold millions of volumes and maintains rare books and manuscripts including letters and documents from Egypt’s early print houses.
The Anwar El Sadat Museum displays possessions of the late president. Some of the highlights include his trademark pipe, his recordings of the Qur’an and a 12-hour footage from Sadat’s presidency culled from Egyptian TV.
Pompey’s pillar, arguably the most famous landmark in the tourism topography of Alexandria, soars 25 meters above the limestone ridge on which it stands. The red granite column — made from sturdy Aswan rock — was probably raised in honor of the Roman Emperor Diocletian. Around the corner is the famed Catacombs of Kom El-Shoqafa.
Qaitbey is an impressive mini citadel located on a narrow peninsula. The fort was built in the 1480s and now houses a naval museum. It occupies the site of the former wonder of the world — the Pharos, or Lighthouse of Alexandria. One of the original seven wonders of the ancient world (the only surviving one being the Pyramid of Cheops), it stood an incredible 135-meters high and lasted 17 centuries.
An evening tour of the Corniche gives a refreshing experience. The Corniche is dotted with street vendors selling local treats like the sweet “fresca” (a paper-thin wafer with honey), charcoal grilled corn, sweet potatoes and roasted peanuts. One can munch these during long walks and while looking at the panoramic sea view. San Stefano Mall is part of the Grand Plaza and the Four Seasons Hotel. The three-story mall features designer brand names, cafeterias, a supermarket and a movie theater complex, to name a few. The City Center on Alexandria desert road has varieties of local and international shops. The vicinity is replete with restaurants, outlets and gardens so families can spend the whole day there.
One may think that Alexandria, with its quiet streets and serene beaches, is a sleepy seaside locale compared to the hustle and bustle of Cairo. However, once inside the city, one will discover that it offers something for every cultural taste. Its buffet of art, music and culture will tempt you to visit it again and again.
