Their memories are clouded or enhanced — whichever you choose — by the experience of eating the street food in the ambience of their frequently primitive surroundings.
A polar opposite is when a skilled chef, brought up to make kebbah as his second nature since he was in single figures, brings this Aleppo local staple to the magnificently accoutered Qasr Al Sharq in Jeddah. A rather different ambience to be sure, and it contributes perfectly to the experience; but it’s a palace rather than a shack.
Wessam Al Mustapha, the sous-chef at Qasr Al Sharq is a self-confident and entirely professional chef, and happily, looks the part. Passionate about his art, he never wanted any other career than producing fine food. During his college training, “where I picked up the basic tools of the craft,” he paid his way by working and picking up experience in hotel and restaurant kitchens.
“It was hard, but an important time for learning the trade as well as the art of cooking,” he confided. It worked, for in 2003 he joined the Hilton and now practices in the Qasr kitchens. He is absolutely uncompromising in his standards, and it shows in his food.
Getting a tip from him is marginally easier than getting a captive out of Colditz; however, Al Mustapha emphasized that ingredients had to be fresh and the very best quality, and when it came to kebbah, fine brown bulgur (wheat) for the crust was the only way to go. “Now eat!” he grinned. No encouragement needed.
Muhamara, made with walnuts and peppers, was a new one to me. A glorious smooth dip with a satisfying touch of chili was, served with fresh (Arab) bread, the ideal opening shot in the assault on the evening — definitely worth a reprise.
Asked to select his personal favorite kebbah, Al Mustapha chose the bromated kebbah stuffed with pistachio. He presented it with a cool neutral flavored cucumber salad that complimented without concealing the lamb and pistachio flavors.
Traditionally, kebbah formed the centerpiece of a meal and was served with stew or vegetables; “anything that came to hand that was fresh,” said Al Mustapha.
This is where he excels himself. Both the Kebbah Somaqeah and Kebbah Sfargaleh are served with a sauce-rich stew with lamb. The Somaqeah comes accompanied with eggplant stew and lamb flavored with somaq. The sauce is slightly tart and herby with a titillating edge to compliment the lamb. “Cannot be beaten,” thought I.
Then came the Sfargaleh with a lamb stew with quince and pomegranate juice: Oh bliss! The exotic combination of sharp quince and luscious pomegranate, balanced against superbly tender lamb with just a hint of fat to challenge the fruit, was an experience never to forget. I double then triple checked to make absolutely sure: Tough assignment, this!
Well received by the other guests was the Kebbah Labneyeh, served in a bowl of fresh laban with rice and flavored with dry mint and pine nuts. Not much given to milk products — down to the radiator-warmed bottles served to children of my pre-Thatcher generation — my personal preference was for the lamb stew. The other guests were not subjected to that lactic humiliation, and the creamy dish met a very swift and much appreciated end!
The very appropriately named “Aleppo Delights” promotion at Qasr Al Sharq in the Matam Al Sharq restaurant runs until July 28.
