Mombasa and southward!

Once Kenya is mentioned, the first thing that springs to mind is often the Masai Mara, Africa’s most renowned national park. Having done my share of game driving and bush walking, I was looking for a different twist to my Kenyan days. Off to the coast, I headed.
Mombasa is the country’s second largest city. It is also the busiest port on the East African coast, and an important sea gateway to the heart of the continent. Mombasa has always been a strategic commercial post. First came the Arabs, some traded and left, others decided to stay. Intermarriages with the local African resulted in a new tribe — Swahilis. If you speak Arabic, give it a shot and try understanding Kiswahili, their mother tongue: It is awash with similarities. As Mombasa grew, its importance grew. Soon enough opportunist colonists were cunningly conspiring. Heading the queue were the Portuguese and in their very first visit to Mombasa in 1505, Don Francisco de Almeida leveled the city to the ground in less than two days! From here onward, until the whole of Kenya was declared independent in 1963, Mombasa changed hands many times. From the marauding Portuguese to Omani Arabs and finally the Brits, it is a history soaked in blood.
Despite how bleak Mombasan history might be, one unique colonial monument remains an absolute must-see: Fort Jesus. Seeing their hit-and-run tactic failing, the Portuguese opted for a change in strategy. In 1593, they started building Fort Jesus as a sign of their long-term interest in Mombasa. About a century later, in 1698, the fort fell to the hands of Omani Arabs after a 33-month siege. The liberating Omanis soon proved to be another occupier. They only left the country a couple of centuries later. Controlling the fort for such extended periods of time, each culture, the Portuguese as well as the Arabic, tried to leave their distinct mark. The fort, which was built by Italian architect Joao Batista Cairato, has a European feel to it. On the corners you can spot the tokens of Portuguese seafaring heydays; perhaps the most apparent is the giant ship anchor outside the fort’s walls. At the same time, Omanis decorated many parts of the fort’s interior with Islamic motifs and verses from the Holy Qur’an. Playing the cross-culture tune, the fort plays host to two museums. The first displays finds from the sunken Portuguese frigate Santo Antonio de Tanná, along with artifacts that belong to local Mijikenda tribes. The other, dubbed the Omani House, displays Arabian jewelry along with other relics that the ruling sultans once used in their daily lives in Mombasa.
The matatu is “the” method of transportation in Kenya. A minibus transfer that is cheap, frequent and when traffic gets congested, these guys know how to navigate through. I hauled one and headed southward to Diani Beach. There are a number of beaches along Kenya’s south coast that are heavily frequented by tourists. Diani Beach is among them. Lined by accommodations that vary from lavish to budget, one in particular stands out — Stilts Barbor’s Eco-Camp and Campsite. Located about 200m from the beach, it is not your typical lodging facility for it is a tree hotel! Yes, you have read that one right; Stilts is made up of five tree houses nestled in natural tree canopies. Grab a cold bottle of water, relax in your hammock, and unwind from the worries of the day.
Diani can get crowded at times. And I wanted some real peace of mind… Where can I find my Garden of Eden? Funzi Island is a secluded private island off the fishermen village of Bodo. White-powdered sand meets crystal clear turquoise water; relax while lazing in your bungalow’s jacuzzi looking at coconut trees outside your window. What more would you want? Marked among the best private islands in the world, Funzi Keys, the island private lodge, offers seclusion and privacy at their best. And when you have your share of relaxation, there are always a variety of options to choose from; head for an exploring boat ride down Ramisi River, or perhaps a deep-sea fishing trip up the Pemba Channel.
Colobridge!
Driving Diani Beach Road, one would certainly notice rope ladders hanging over the road. They are called Colobridges. The Angolan black-and-white colobus is a primate that inhabits the area south of Mombasa. Crossing from one side of the street to the other, many monkeys fall victim to speedy cars and matatus. Colobridges are a Colobus Trust initiative aimed at providing an alternative road crossing to the monkeys. It has proven successful with more than 150,000 crossings per year. If you are lucky you will catch the sight of a Colobus monkey making the colobridge crossing.... It is amazing!

Swahili cuisine
Arab, Indian and African cuisines melt down in one mind-dazzling melange — Swahili cuisine. There is no denial, Swahili dishes can be easily distinguished just by stepping into the dining room; the use of spices and herbs makes them strongly aromatic. With the abundance and variation of freshly caught seafood, Swahili cuisine is aptly renowned for its seafood dishes; don’t miss the King Prawns with coconut sauce.... Yummy!

Safety and vaccination
In comparison, Mombasa is safer than Nairobi. However, streets tend to clear once the sun sets down. It is not advisable to tread the streets walking solo at night, haul a taxi or find safety in numbers.
When it comes to vaccination, recommendations may vary according to the source of info. Hence, check with your personal physician is the safest option. I personally had vaccinations against Yellow Fever and meningococcal meningitis and took anti-malarial precautions.

Contacts
Stilts Barbor’s Eco-Camp and Campsite, [email protected]
Funzi Keys: Alessandro Torriani Tel [phone] or 733 900582,
e-mail: [email protected]
Saudi Arabian Airlines (www.saudiairlines.com) flies to Nairobi twice a week.