Giorgio Armani postpones Cruise 2021 show in Dubai amid coronavirus concerns

Giorgio Armani postpones Cruise 2021 show in Dubai amid coronavirus concerns
The coronavirus continues to create havoc with the industry’s calendars of events. (File/AFP)
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Updated 08 March 2020

Giorgio Armani postpones Cruise 2021 show in Dubai amid coronavirus concerns

Giorgio Armani postpones Cruise 2021 show in Dubai amid coronavirus concerns

DUBAI: Italian luxury fashion house Giorgio Armani has postponed its Cruise 2021 resort show that was set to take place in April in Dubai, amid concerns over the coronavirus outbreak.

The Cruise 2021 show was originally slated to coincide with the reopening of the iconic fashion house’s flagship store, located in Dubai Mall.

According to an official release from the Italian brand, the decision “has been taken as a precautionary measure in order to protect all the industry stakeholders, employees and guests who would be involved in the trip.”

The official announcement did not mention a new date but said that the show “will be held on the occasion of Expo 2020.”

Giorgio Armani has been taking plenty of precautionary measures in light of the ongoing uncertainty prompted by the coronavirus outbreak.

Last month during Milan Fashion Week, the label showed its Fall 2020 collection to an empty theater, opting to livestream the runway on the brand’s website, Facebook and Instagram instead.

The storied label joins a slew of other fashion brands that have canceled or postponed their upcoming cruise collections, including Prada, which had been scheduled for May 21 in Tokyo and Gucci, which was due to showcase its cruise collection in San Francisco on May 18.  

The upcoming fashion weeks in Beijing and Shanghai will also be postponed due to coronavirus concerns.


The influence of Islamic art on Cartier’s high-end jewelry

The influence of Islamic art on Cartier’s high-end jewelry
Updated 33 min 36 sec ago

The influence of Islamic art on Cartier’s high-end jewelry

The influence of Islamic art on Cartier’s high-end jewelry
  • Paris exhibition shows how one of the world’s most glamorous brands drew inspiration from regional designs

PARIS: Having already explored its links with Japan and ancient Egypt, the French luxury goods brand Cartier is now exploring the profound influence that Islamic art has had on the company’s history.

To do so, Cartier turned to the Louvre — home to both the Museum of Decorative Arts and the Department of Islamic Arts. The former hosts the largest collection of jewelry in France, while the latter contains a priceless and historic collection of artworks from the Islamic world.

The result is “Cartier and Islamic Art: In Search of Modernity,” an exhibition that runs in Paris from October 21 to February 20, and will then travel to the Dallas Museum of Art (DMA) in Texas.

17th Century Court Belt from Iran or India - silk with silver thread - from the Louvre. (Supplied)

Arab News spoke to Evelyne Possémé, chief curator of ancient and modern jewelry at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, and Judith Henon-Raynaud, curator and deputy director of the Department of Islamic Arts at the Louvre — two of the four curators of the exhibition. (The other two curators are Thomas W. Lentz, curator of Islamic and medieval art at the DMA, and Sarah Schleuning, the DMA’s interim chief curator and The Margot B. Perot senior curator of decorative arts and design.)

The exhibition, based on research that began in 2018 at the Louvre into Louis Cartier’s personal collection of Islamic art, consists of more than 500 pieces, including jewelry and other objects from Cartier, along with drawings, books, photos and archival documents tracing the brand’s interest in Islamic arts.

“The museum had acquired two Indian ivory pencil boxes from the early seventeenth century, which were part of this hitherto unknown collection,” Possémé told Arab News.

Cladding panel from Iran in late 14th - 15th century. (Supplied)

The exhibition is organized as a themed chronological tour divided into two parts, the first of which explores the origins of Cartier’s interest in Islamic art and architecture through the cultural backdrop of Paris at the beginning of the 20th century and reviews the creative context, as designers and studios searched for sources of inspiration. It includes pieces from Cartier’s library, Louis Cartier’s personal Islamic art collection, and Indian and Iranian jewelry.

The second part of the exhibition is dedicated to pieces inspired by Islamic art, from the start of the 20th century to the present day, and draws heavily on drawings, jewelry and objects from collections belonging to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs and the Musée du Louvre, which were part of the first exhibitions devoted to the arts of Islam.

The gallery exhibits some major pieces inspired by Islamic art and as well as animations detailing the composition of the jewels and their patterns.

Tiara, Cartier London, 1936. Platinum, diamonds, turquoise. (Supplied)

From the outset, visitors find themselves immersed in these shapes and motifs, with three of Cartier’s iconic creations set against masterpieces of Islamic art.

“The discovery of Islamic art at the beginning of the twentieth century had a significant impact on Cartier’s creators,” Henon-Raynaud explained. “Although famed for its garland-style jewelry, from 1904 onwards Cartier began developing pieces inspired by the geometric patterns of Islamic art found in books about ornamentation and architecture.”

The two curators cite enameled brick decorations originating from Central Asia and stepped merlons in the Art Deco style (a reference to the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris in 1925) as early influences on Cartier’s shift in its design philosophy.

Bib necklace 1947 - twisted 18- and 20-karat gold with diamonds and amethysts. (Supplied)

“This source of inspiration is perceptible throughout the twentieth century in the creations of the house,” explained Possémé. “They were sometimes easily identifiable, at other times broken down and redesigned to make their source untraceable.”

The House of Cartier, founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, initially specialized in selling jewels and artworks. It was only when Louis-François’ son Alfred took over the management of the company in 1874 — supported by his eldest son Louis in 1898 — that the house began to design its own jewelry, while continuing its activity of reselling antique pieces.

At the beginning of the twentieth century, Paris was a hub for trade in Islamic art. Thanks to major exhibitions organized at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 1903 and then in Munich in 1910, Louis Cartier discovered these new shapes that gradually permeated French society.

1924 head ornament - Cartier New York - Platinum - white and pink gold - diamonds and feathers. (Supplied)

Jacques Cartier, an enthusiastic traveler, visited India in 1911 to meet various Maharajas. The gemstone trade was in full swing by that time, and allowed Cartier to build a strong relationship with the Indian princes, so he collected many antique and contemporary jewelry items, which he would either resell unchanged, use as inspiration, or dismantle for incorporation into new designs.

“The influence of Islamic art is also clear in (Cartier’s) use of bold color ranges — lapis lazuli blue, emerald green and turquoise, for example — at a time when jewels tended to be created using diamonds in monochrome settings,” Henon-Raynaud said. “Finally, shapes and construction of jewelry from Persia and India gave rise to technical innovations such platinum mountings, in order to gain flexibility.”


REVIEW: Mads Mikkelsen shines in darkly humorous revenge drama ‘Riders of Justice’

REVIEW: Mads Mikkelsen shines in darkly humorous revenge drama ‘Riders of Justice’
Updated 05 August 2021

REVIEW: Mads Mikkelsen shines in darkly humorous revenge drama ‘Riders of Justice’

REVIEW: Mads Mikkelsen shines in darkly humorous revenge drama ‘Riders of Justice’
  • Anders Thomas Jensen delivers an unexpected, thrilling gem with this Danish action-comedy

AMSTERDAM: Danish director Anders Thomas Jensen’s “Riders of Justice” initially presents as a straightforward vigilante revenge thriller. Mads Mikkelsen stars as military veteran Markus, whose PTSD is apparently clear to everyone but himself and his commanding officers, who ask him to extend his overseas tour by a further three months.

Soon after, his wife is killed in a train crash. Their teenage daughter Mathilde was present, but survives, as does statistics genius Otto, who had given up his seat for Markus’ wife moments before the crash. With the help of two ‘eccentric’ fellow geeks — abuse-survivor Lennart and the obese, spectacularly foul-mouthed Emmenthaler — Otto figures out that the train wreck was, in fact, no accident, but a scheme planned by the titular motorcycle gang (and organized crime outfit) to get rid of a key witness in the upcoming trial of their club president, Kurt Olesen.

“Riders of Justice” is directed by Danish filmmaker Anders Thomas Jensen. (Supplied) 

Otto’s “facts” seem to stack up. But they were obtained illegally and cannot be taken to the police. So the three oddballs head to Markus’ house, where they explain that they believe his wife was an innocent victim of a carefully planned assassination. Markus vows to take revenge, and they agree to help him.

So far, so formulaic. But this is where “Riders of Justice” departs from its seemingly straightforward path, evolving instead into something original and unexpected — a musing on randomness and coincidence, an examination of camaraderie, and an exploration of love and grief and trauma. All with a healthy dose of very black humor thrown in.

Mikkelsen is excellent as the ultra-Alpha male Markus — his stoicism covering a storm of violence waiting to erupt as he tries in vain to quash his anger and grief at his wife’s death and his frustration at his inability to connect with Mathilde. But the supporting cast all play their part too. Each of the main characters is damaged in their own way — whether physically, emotionally or both — and while Markus is apparently the strongest (in all senses) of them, it becomes clear that the others have skills and strengths that he simply doesn’t possess, but that he will desperately need if he is to survive intact.

Jensen has crafted a hugely enjoyable, hugely original piece of work that deserves to be seen by a wide audience. Be warned, though, this is definitely not a family-friendly movie.


Dior is set to stage its first exhibition in the Middle East

Dior is set to stage its first exhibition in the Middle East
The "Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams" exhibition at Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Getty Images
Updated 04 August 2021

Dior is set to stage its first exhibition in the Middle East

Dior is set to stage its first exhibition in the Middle East

DUBAI: “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams” is a new fashion exhibition coming to Doha, Qatar, later this year. Designed specifically for the Middle East, the forthcoming exhibition is a celebration of the Parisian maison, which is turning 75 in December.

Mark your calendars, for the exhibition will take place from November 2021 until March 2022 at Doha’s M7 art center following successful stops in Paris, London and Shanghai.

The iconic Dior Bar suit. Getty Images

With special curation by Olivier Gabet, the Director of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the hotly-anticipated exhibition will feature a lineup of memorable pieces that have defined the heritage fashion house, such as the iconic Bar Jacket, an iconic garment instantly-recognizable by its cinched waist from Monsieur Dior’s revolutionary 1947 collection as well as other objects that fashion enthusiasts will revel in.

Also on display will be original sketches by the legendary designer for his couture collections, a baccarat blue crystal limited edition Miss Dior perfume bottle from 1947 and haute couture creations by succeeding Dior creative directors such as John Galliano, Raf Simons and Yves Saint Laurent.


Jessica Alba, Zac Efron star in new Dubai Tourism campaign

Jessica Alba, Zac Efron star in new Dubai Tourism campaign
Jessica Alba and Zac Efron co-star in the spoof action film. Instagram
Updated 04 August 2021

Jessica Alba, Zac Efron star in new Dubai Tourism campaign

Jessica Alba, Zac Efron star in new Dubai Tourism campaign

DUBAI: US actors Jessica Alba and Zac Efron are the most recent superstars to be tapped by Dubai Tourism for its latest tourism campaign and short film. 

The ad, which is a spoof of an action film, features Alba and Efron fighting off enemies in well-known landmarks across the city, such as the Burj Khalifa and the Museum of the Future. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Zac Efron (@zacefron)

The ad campaign also sees the Hollywood duo skydive off a helipad on the Burj Al-Arab, dine at Pierchic and navigate through the historic neighborhood of Al-Fahidi on scooters. 

The action-filled clip begins with the pair at Burj Al-Arab’s SAL restaurant, while a voiceover of Alba can be heard saying, “You’re just always putting work first.”

“Look I don’t want to fight with you,” responds Efron as the on-screen couple dine at Pierchic.  “He might,” he adds after a motorbike blasts through the restaurant.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Zac Efron (@zacefron)

Also featured in the ad is Caroline Labouchere, a Dubai-based model.

Efron posted the trailer on his Instagram page, alongside the cheeky caption: “She’s always getting me out of trouble.”

Alba, 40, also posted the trailer with the caption, “He’s always getting me into more trouble…”

Efron and Alba offered a glimpse of their project with Dubai Tourism earlier this week on Instagram.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Jessica Alba (@jessicaalba)

The “High School Musical” actor posted a behind-the-scenes still to his Instagram account, tagging Craig Gillespie, the Australian director who has worked on films including “I, Tonya” and, most recently, “Cruella.”

The ad was reportedly shot in the emirate in February.

At the time, images circulated on social media of the “Baywatch” star surrounded by film crew members on the beach in Jumeirah, close to the Burj Al-Arab.

Dubai Tourism is no stranger to recruiting A-listers to feature in promotional videos. 

Past stars to feature in campaigns include Bollywood star Shah Rukh Khan and US actress Gwyneth Paltrow.

In 2019, Khan invited Paltrow to Dubai as part of his #BeMyGuest campaign.

Later that year, the Goop founder returned to Dubai to film a tourism campaign and short film, “A Story Takes Flight,” alongside Hollywood stars Zoe Saldana and Kate Hudson. 


Why this retired engineer is a ‘model’ Saudi citizen

The models include typical houses and traditional shops that served fava beans, barbecued meat, kebabs and mabshoor, a traditional Arab dish of bread in a meat or vegetable broth. (Photos/Huda Bashatah)
The models include typical houses and traditional shops that served fava beans, barbecued meat, kebabs and mabshoor, a traditional Arab dish of bread in a meat or vegetable broth. (Photos/Huda Bashatah)
Updated 04 August 2021

Why this retired engineer is a ‘model’ Saudi citizen

The models include typical houses and traditional shops that served fava beans, barbecued meat, kebabs and mabshoor, a traditional Arab dish of bread in a meat or vegetable broth. (Photos/Huda Bashatah)
  • Abdul Aziz Taher Al-Hebshi aims to preserve the history of social and cultural life in Saudi Arabia
  • Makkah in those days was a beacon for writers, poets and scientists

MAKKAH: A Saudi agricultural engineer is spending his retirement years helping to preserve the Kingdom’s architectural and cultural history — in the form of extremely accurate models of important buildings and sites in Jeddah and Makkah.

Now Abdul Aziz Taher Al-Hebshi has turned his house in Jeddah’s Al-Rawdah neighborhood into an exhibition space to showcase his models, which represent a fascinating record of daily social and cultural life in the cities in the early-to-mid 20th century.
A good example of this is his model of a “writer’s cafe” in the Misfalah neighborhood of Makkah that was once popular with writers, intellectuals and poets. Through it, he said, he aims to immortalize the role these figures played in the development of literature in Saudi Arabia and the country’s cultural history.
“Knowledgeable people told me that the cafe where Makkah’s writers, poets and intellectuals used to go to was Saleh Abdulhay Cafe, located next to Bajrad Cafe,” 72-year-old Al-Hebshi told Arab News. “Similar cafes were found throughout Makkah’s Misfalah neighborhood in the past.”
He said culture and literature thrived in Makkah in those days, along with the study of science and the quest for knowledge. The city was therefore a beacon for writers, poets and scientists, and the Saleh Abdulhay Cafe was one of the places where they could gather for intellectual and cultural discussions.
“Among the cultural and intellectual figures that used to go to the writer’s cafe … was the Saudi Minister of Culture Mohammed Abdu Yamani,” he said, adding that such venues were the country’s first literary and cultural forums, where people could gather to discuss literary and intellectual issues.
With his models and exhibition, Al-Hebshi said he wants to depict and preserve this history of day-to-day life and culture in Makkah and Jeddah in days gone by. In addition to the cafe, his models include typical houses and traditional shops that served fava beans, barbecued meat, kebabs and mabshoor, a traditional Arab dish of bread in a meat or vegetable broth.
In particular, he said he wants to immortalize the lives of the intellectuals and writers of the era by documenting their daily lives, the ways in which people interacted with them and how neighborhoods such as Misfalah developed as important cultural centers.
So far he has spent three years building his models of cafes, shops, houses and public squares. He has completed four and is working on a fifth. The task requires hard work and patience, he said. For example, it requires great effort to accurately recreate in miniature the rawasheen, the elaborately patterned wooden window frames found in old buildings in Makkah and Jeddah that maximize natural light and air flow. Great accuracy is required throughout the model making process when it comes to the sizes, dimensions and scale.
“One meter in real life is 10 centimeters in the models,” Al-Hebshi said, which represents a scale of one-to-10. “This measure seeks to maintain, as much as possible, the space’s real dimensions.”
The contents of rooms must also be in scale with the building and each other, he explained: “A bottle of Coca-Cola cannot be bigger than a watermelon and so on.” These are all important details in his models, he added, which ensure they are accurate and consistent.
Given the incredible detail and quality of the models, you would be forgiven for thinking Al-Hebshi is a trained carpenter; in fact he is an enthusiastic amateur with a true passion for the craft. Such is his dedication that even hand injuries — and the need for surgery after damaging a finger with a drill — have not kept him from his work for long.

HIGHLIGHT

Abdul Aziz Taher Al-Hebshi says he was inspired by Jeddah’s Old Town and its magnificent Hijazi buildings with rawasheen, beautifully crafted doors, ornate engravings and delicate details, along with the beauty of its landscape and old streets.

He said his model making began after he found some tools that had been abandoned in a carpentry shop, and for materials he used wood and discarded kaftans he found in stores he shopped at. Wood cutting requires great skill, he added, and while he makes most parts of his models, he said he imports some items from abroad to ensure the highest levels of accuracy. For example he buys miniature signs advertising popular international brands such as Pepsi, Miranda and 7-Up, which are difficult to recreate through woodworking.
Al-Hebshi was director of the Agricultural Bank in Jeddah when he was forced to retire in 2006 as a result of a back injury, and he found himself wondering what he could do with his time. A few years earlier he had developed an interest in woodworking but the demands of his job left him with little time to pursue it. A friend who was aware of this suggested he do something with the wood from a large felled neem tree that had been dumped in Jeddah.
“That tree turned out to be the start of me professionally building models,” he said. He added that he was inspired by Jeddah’s Old Town and its magnificent Hijazi buildings with rawasheen, beautifully crafted doors, ornate engravings and delicate details, along with the beauty of its landscape and old streets. The Saudi leadership has put a special focus on the area to showcase its history and splendor and Al-Hebshi said that this has helped him research his detailed designs.
He added that he welcomes all those who wish to visit his house, in Al-Rawdah neighborhood 3, to see his models. He plans to build more to add to his incredible picture of past life in the Kingdom, and the people who helped the country become the nation it is.