Derelict old buildings or houses with a fast disappearing history? The dilemma of the Yemen Quarter in downtown Jeddah (Harat Al-Yemen) is a bit of both. Buildings made of coral blocks loosely mortared together crowd along narrow alleyways to create an intimate but decaying atmosphere. To some people, however, the quarter is home and they say they will never leave it.
The Yemen Quarter, many say, is the heart of Jeddah. It is itself an ancient monument full of history. Not so many years ago, it overlooked Jeddah’s port. A number of well-known Jeddah families lived in the area; even a partial list of names is impressive: Abdulsamid, Abduljawad, Fitaihi, Humais, Ajlan, Ba Jawa, Deyab, Shalabi, Attar, Halawani, Ghhrab, Bahader, Ghalib, Ashmawi, Bugary and others. Most of these people worked as Haj agents or in business or for the government. The history of the area goes back many, many years.
Omar Baessa, a resident of the quarter, said, “People in this neighborhood fight to hold on to their traditions just as the old buildings struggle to remain standing.
“People here are united as one; everybody knows everybody else. We are like a body — if one part is affected, the whole body is affected. Here is where Jeddah began; it developed from here to what you see today. Many people in important positions as well as many important businessmen were born in this quarter.”
Abu Sulaiman commented: “I never think of leaving this place: I will live and die here. My children who grew up here have moved to north Jeddah. Visiting them in their houses there makes me appreciate that I still live here. I am used to greeting everyone I see in the street. In north Jeddah, people walk past you and say nothing. A stranger is seen as someone dangerous while here, we welcome strangers and offer help if they ask for it. A stranger in the neighborhood is like a guest in out house. It is rude to turn them away or ignore them. In the neighborhood where I live, I know every one and they all know me. People in apartment buildings in north Jeddah usually do not know each other and do not speak to each other.”
Ghazi Seraj said: “Every afternoon when the weather is cool, we go down to a place — we call it meerkas — where people sit and socialize”. He went on to say, “One man’s problem is every man’s problem because we are all one. We love to come here and socialize and talk about daily problems, family and children’s concerns, international problems, economic issues and everything else. We who live in the quarter love to go outside and meet people. We love to sit outside and socialize. We are different from the people of north Jeddah who love to stay indoors, away from their neighbors. What kind of a life do they have only insider their own four walls? Part of the beauty here in downtown Jeddah and specifically in this quarter is seeing people out in the street, sitting and talking and children playing.”
Talal Al-Aydaroos said, “What is sad is that so many teenagers and young people these days do not know the real history of this place. Most of them look at the quarter and see only old buildings without knowing anything about the buildings or the quarter. I wonder why our schools do not bring children here to get an idea about Jeddah’s history and its past. Too many people think of Jeddah as new and modern with a nice beach and a beautiful Corniche. That is all true but it all started here in downtown Jeddah. Old Jeddah is worth our attention but it is often neglected. Our history is being slowly erased and we do not see anyone saying or doing anything to stop that process. Just look at the walls and the streets. The area is dying, neglected by the public and officials.”
