Fashion Trust Arabia finalist Jihane Boumediane on preserving Morocco’s ancient wool-felting craft

Fashion Trust Arabia finalist Jihane Boumediane on preserving Morocco’s ancient wool-felting craft
Jihane Boumediane, the designer behind Moroccan brand Jyann, is garnering significant attention as a finalist for Qatar’s Fashion Trust Arabia Award. (Supplied)
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Updated 14 October 2024
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Fashion Trust Arabia finalist Jihane Boumediane on preserving Morocco’s ancient wool-felting craft

Fashion Trust Arabia finalist Jihane Boumediane on preserving Morocco’s ancient wool-felting craft

DUBAI: Jihane Boumediane, the designer behind Moroccan brand Jyann, is garnering significant attention as a finalist for Qatar’s Fashion Trust Arabia Award in the accessories category, ahead of the ceremony in Marrakesh on Oct. 24.

Founded in 2021, her brand is known for its handcrafted bags and hats. It draws deeply on Morocco’s rich heritage of wool felting — a craft that dates back thousands of years and is integral to the country’s cultural identity.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by jYANN (@jyannofficial)

Wool felting, an ancient textile-production method, is a labor-intensive process that involves manually pressing together wool fibers using water and soap.

This technique has been passed down through generations of Moroccan artisans, particularly in the Atlas Mountains where Boumediane sources her wool.

“The wool from this region has so many wonderful properties — it’s resistant, the fibers are not too long or short. It checks all the boxes — sustainable, versatile and beautiful,” explained the designer.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by jYANN (@jyannofficial)

For Boumediane, fashion is not just about aesthetics, it is about preserving and elevating traditional crafts while creating a positive impact throughout the supply chain.

“Our approach is to create an impact on all levels — from the sheep raisers in the High Atlas to the artisans who meticulously craft each piece,” she said.

Her commitment to sustainability and ethical production can be seen in her sourcing of local materials and desire to optimize water usage in wool processing.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by jYANN (@jyannofficial)

Each of her handbags can take anywhere from five to seven days to create and transcend seasons — making them last for years.

The Fashion Trust Arabia Award is a significant milestone for Boumediane and her brand. “Being recognized by such a platform validates the years of research and experimentation we’ve put into our craft,” she said.

Winning this award would enable her to scale her operations, recruit and train new artisans, and further her mission of social innovation. “It’s not just about making beautiful products; it’s about safeguarding ancient techniques and ensuring they thrive in the modern world.”

The FTA 2024 Advisory Board selected 18 finalists from applications submitted by emerging talent from across the Middle East and North Africa region.

They are competing in six categories: ready-to-wear, eveningwear, jewelry, accessories, fashion tech, and for the Franca Sozzani Debut Talent Award.

The board includes British celebrity-loved designer Erdem Moralioglu, jewelry designer Gaia Repossi and US designer Kelly Wearstler.

The winners will receive a financial grant of between $100,000 and $200,000, depending on the size of their business.


Sotheby’s to stage first live auction in Saudi Arabia in February 2025

Sotheby’s to stage first live auction in Saudi Arabia in February 2025
Updated 07 November 2024
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Sotheby’s to stage first live auction in Saudi Arabia in February 2025

Sotheby’s to stage first live auction in Saudi Arabia in February 2025
  • The inaugural auction and public exhibition will take place in the Saudi heritage site of Diriyah

DUBAI: Sotheby’s has announced it will stage the first ever live auction in Saudi Arabia in February 2025. Taking place in the historic town of Diriyah, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the birthplace of the Saudi state, located northwest of Riyadh, the auction will offer modern and contemporary artworks, Islamic objects, jewelry, watches, cars, sports memorabilia and handbags, among other items. 

Titled “Origins,” the live auction will take place on Feb. 8, 2025, presenting global offerings and fine art by both home-grown Saudi artists and leading names in international art history.

Ahmed Mater, Untitled (Diptych from The Illumination Series), Offset lithograph and gold leaf on paper with tea and pomegranate toning, 174 by 225cm, 2012. (Courtesy Sotheby's)

The auction will take place as a two-part evening auction and will be preceded by an exhibition of the contents of “Origins,” that will be showcased in a free, public exhibition, open from Feb. 1 – 8.

“This auction - and indeed our incorporation - is the culmination of many years of supporting cultural initiatives in the Kingdom, and a natural evolution of our business,” Edward Gibbs, chairman of Sotheby’s Middle East & India, told Arab News. 

“We have been travelling to Saudi for a number of years, working with clients who are based there, as well as meeting new collectors in the region, and have been supporting the Ministry of Culture’s exciting endeavors –not least with all of the editions of the biennale, where we have provided an educational component, with specialist talks and tours,” he added.  

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Sotheby's (@sothebys)

Increasingly, said Gibbs, Sotheby’s saw that Saudi Arabia was a space rife for a growing art market and live auctions, proven by its fast paced development, young demographic, growing collector base and the increasing presence of the regional and international art community.

“The auction comes hand in hand with our opening of an office in Riyadh, so marks a new chapter in our activities in Saudi — a phase that we are entering with great optimism and ambition,” Sebastian Fahey, managing director of Sotheby’s Global Fine Arts, told Arab News. “Alongside the inaugural sale, our activities will also continue to include educational offerings around art, luxury and collecting, as this is something we strongly believe in.”

The auction and exhibition will be staged in the historic Diriyah, the ancestral heart of the nation, where the
First Saudi State was inaugurated just under two decades before Sotheby’s was established in 1744. (Supplied)

“The art market has never been quite so international, and this opening complements our global network, particularly in the Middle East, which has long been a region we have believed in and invested in,” stressed Fahey.

Diriyah is a significant place to stage Saudi Arabia’s first-ever live auction. In the historic town, now developing as one of the Kingdom’s gigaprojects, the First Saudi State was inaugurated just under two decades before Sotheby’s was established in 1744. 

At present, Diriyah is transforming into a local and global hub for art, culture and high profile events in the Kingdom, connecting its past and present through heritage and creativity.


Inside Elie Saab’s fashion empire ahead of his Riyadh showcase

Inside Elie Saab’s fashion empire ahead of his Riyadh showcase
1 - MAIN IMAGE - Fashion designer Elie Saab poses with models after the Elie Saab Spring Summer 2018 show as part of Paris Fashi
Updated 07 November 2024
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Inside Elie Saab’s fashion empire ahead of his Riyadh showcase

Inside Elie Saab’s fashion empire ahead of his Riyadh showcase
  • Ahead of his show in Riyadh this week, Arab News looks back at the acclaimed Lebanese designer’s career

DUBAI: Reinvention is a term the fashion world is very familiar with: Heads of houses come and go, archival signatures are foraged and flipped, collections strategically expanded or cut according to social media impressions or sales success. For most brands there’s a continuous necessity to pivot. Not Elie Saab. The Lebanese designer has cleverly curated an empire with slow, measured precision, bolstered by an absolute belief in the art of craftsmanship. 

“The code of my collections will always remain the same,” the glamour-focused Saab has often stated, referring to his luxury pairing of Western silhouettes with a Middle Eastern flair for ornamentation and embellishment. Rather than reinvent the wheel, he fine-tunes, dreaming up multi-generational investment pieces that are studied, worked and tweaked to perfection — an approach that has garnered him a loyal following and an impressive 45-year legacy.  

To mark this anniversary (and simultaneously show some love to his longtime Saudi supporters), Saab is joining forces with Riyadh Season to host what promises to be an immersive one-of-a-kind fashion spectacle in the Saudi capital on Nov. 13. Titled “1001 Seasons of Elie Saab” — a nod to the famed “One Thousand and One Nights” collection of Arabic folktales — the event will forgo a standard runway presentation in favor of a theatrically orchestrated tableau of models, live music and 300 fresh looks for Fall 2025. 

“We will be preparing something unprecedented and new to mark this important occasion,” Saab said during a press conference in London earlier this year, “and celebrate the city of Riyadh as it continues to support creativity and the diversity of culture in the region.”  

Whether by way of the soundtrack, set design or the clothing itself (which will be styled by former French Vogue editor, Carine Roitfeld), a nod to his hosts’ aesthetic sensibilities seems inevitable. After all, his relationship with the Kingdom is an important one, cemented last year with the opening of a spacious flagship store in VIA Riyadh that carries his most recent ready-to-wear and bridal collections, childrenswear, accessories and fragrances, in addition to a private haute couture salon. The space itself — all white walls, marble floors and plush carpets — was designed and furnished by another of his exploits, Elie Saab Maison. 

Carolina Mendes, Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld, Elie Saab Jr, Designer Elie Saab and Carine Roitfeld attends the Elie Saab Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 28, 2024. (Getty Images)

Such a broad portfolio might be the norm for fashion’s biggest conglomerates with major financial backing, the likes of LVMH or Kering, say, but in Saab’s case, as an independent designer, it’s especially impressive given where he started from. Born and raised in Damour, a coastal suburb of Beirut, he was barely 10 years old when he began teaching himself how to sew. Apart from a single year spent at a fashion school in Paris, his education was shaped by instinct, imagination and circumstance. Long before the rest of the fashion world woke up to their environmental misdemeanours, Saab was dressing his sister in scraps of fabrics from their mother’s closet. Sustainable design was simply a necessity. 

In 1982, aged 18, he opened his own studio in war-torn Beirut — an act of loyalty to the city he refers to as his “Queen” — and navigated his way through a civil war that had been raging in Lebanon since 1975, displacing almost a million people including members of Saab’s own family. His commitment to his heritage, to the Lebanese people, their resilience, optimism and creativity, is unshakeable. Following the Beirut Port blast on Aug. 4, 2020, which caused 218 deaths, thousands of injuries and US$15 billion in property damage, Saab responded with a tribute collection titled “Beyrouth, Source Eternelle.”  

Claudine Saab, designer Elie Saab, Jennifer Lopez and Elie Saab Jr pose at the backstage prior to the Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show. (Getty Images) 

“I want people to talk about Beirut in a positive way,” he told Arab News in March 2021, “and remember that (the city) is not all those bad things they are seeing.” 

Saab’s determination to make the best of a truly bad situation is a common trait in his country where, despite it all, creativity is flourishing. Beirut remains the region’s home of couture, spawning a design collective that includes Zuhair Murad, Georges Hobeika, Georges Chakra and Rabih Kayrouz, plus an ever-expanding roster of rising talent: Racil, Roni Helou, Hussein Bazaza, Cynthia Merhej, and Sandra Mansour, who trained under Saab and recognises his influence within her choice of diaphanous fabrics and delicate embroidery. 

“The biggest lesson I learned (from working with Saab) is the importance of staying true to your vision,” says Mansour. “He has always had a deep understanding of what women want to feel when they wear a dress — powerful, elegant, and confident — and his attention to detail and craftsmanship is unmatched…that’s what makes it timeless.” 

Halle Berry brought Saab to the attention of Hollywood when she accepted her 2002 Academy Award in a standout sheer embroidered gown with a crimson taffeta skirt of his design. Since then, he has found himself dressing everyone from Middle Eastern royalty (Queen Rania of Jordan famously wore one of his gowns for her coronation ceremony in 1999) to Julia Roberts and Beyoncé.  

Halle Berry accepting her 2002 Best Actress Oscar in an Elie Saab gown. (AFP)

“It is true that I know all of them and that we are friends — the person matters to me and how the relationship started and goes on,” Saab told Arab News in March 2021. “When you deal with Meryl Streep, (for example), even with all her glory and despite all the awards she has won, you feel how simple she is. I like people who are modest.” 

“Fast-fashion,” “trend-led” and “disposable” are not part of Saab’s vocabulary and despite an increasingly digitally focused market, he remains one of few designers able to prioritize perfectionism and the personal touch. A year after his Oscars moment, he became the first Arab designer to be admitted to the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, where he continues to present his most creatively elaborate work. For now, though, fashion’s spotlight and the female gaze is set firmly on Saab’s return to Riyadh and a hotly anticipated front row. 


Cloud7 Residence AlUla: A dreamy home away from home  

Cloud7 Residence AlUla: A dreamy home away from home  
1 - MAIN IMAGE - Cloud7 Residence AlUla 2 - supplied
Updated 07 November 2024
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Cloud7 Residence AlUla: A dreamy home away from home  

Cloud7 Residence AlUla: A dreamy home away from home  
  • The gated resort is an ideal place from which to explore the ancient desert oasis  

ALULA: Roughly half an hour’s drive from AlUla’s Prince Abdul Majeed bin Abdulaziz International Airport, Cloud7 Residence is the largest hotel in the area, boasting 301 modern bungalows. Each unit is thoughtfully designed, featuring individual private terraces from which guests can enjoy awe-inspiring views of AlUla’s stunning landscapes — mountains and lush greenery.  

Cloud7’s decor blends the ancient with the trendy. Coupled with the traditional Saudi hospitality on offer, this is a truly nice place to stay. It’s the chillest hotel/resort I’ve been to in ages. 

Inside one of the 301 bungalows at Cloud7 Residence. (Supplied)

The beds are comfortable and the rooms are well-equipped, including plenty of places to plug in your devices. There are eco-friendly products provided, including chewable toothpaste that comes in tiny pills in a glass jar, and which activates once you have some water in your mouth.  

The fridge comes stocked with complimentary sodas and plenty of water bottles at the ready — also useful for feeding into the coffee machine. 

The main mode of transportation in the grounds, whether taking your luggage to your room, going to breakfast or to relax by the pool, or heading to your next activity, is a buggy. There was usually one right outside my door each time I emerged from my bungalow, but if there isn’t, you can simply call for one. 

The swimming pool at Cloud7 Residence AlUla. (Supplied)

The residence is an ideal base for both short- and long-term stays, designed to accommodate the needs of leisure seekers, adventure enthusiasts and business travelers alike in its secure, gated space. 

As part of the residence’s commitment to honoring local heritage, a series of murals created by local artists adorn the walls. Artists including Hanan Sami and Maram AlSelayem brought their individual styles to the project, creating pieces that highlight AlUla’s natural beauty and heritage. The venue’s community and culture manager, Fahad Alfaqir, said the artists who painted the murals are all from AlUla, as he is, and that they depicted local plants and flowers to decorate the spaces and used inscriptions from indigenous languages.  

Cloud7 Residence AlUla’s dining experiences range from gourmet meals to relaxed, family-friendly options. Charcood, the resort’s signature restaurant, offers a selection of smoky, charcoal-grilled dishes crafted by Chef Jaume Puigdengolas. Open for breakfast, dinner, and light bites, it was my go-to place to start the day. 

One of the murals at Cloud7. (Supplied)

For those who prefer a more casual atmosphere, Off-Road Café serves lunch, dinner and light snacks in a laidback setting, perfect for watching live sports or movies on large screens. Guests can enjoy playing pool, darts and foosball, or indulge in some shisha outside. 

For those seeking a relaxing time away from being away, the Pool Lounge offers casual dining with comfortable beanbags and a curated menu of international flavors, all presented poolside. It was perhaps my favorite spot to sit and literally reflect while the serene water reminds you to stay centered. 

Cloud7 Residence AlUla is also in a prime location for exploring AlUla’s many historical sites. Visitors can easily reach attractions like the ancient city of Dadan, Jabal Ikmah’s rock inscriptions and — my favorite — Old Town. You can book guided tours, but the hotel also provides car and bike rentals. 

Cloud7 Residence AlUla is more than just somewhere to stay; it’s an invitation to connect with the timeless beauty of AlUla — a place which makes you feel so big and so small all at once. 


REVIEW: ‘Time Cut’ — modern twist on classic slashers ends up disappointing 

REVIEW: ‘Time Cut’ — modern twist on classic slashers ends up disappointing 
(L-R) Antonia Gentry as Summer and Madison Bailey as Lucy in 'Time Cut'
Updated 07 November 2024
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REVIEW: ‘Time Cut’ — modern twist on classic slashers ends up disappointing 

REVIEW: ‘Time Cut’ — modern twist on classic slashers ends up disappointing 
  • Netflix time-travel caper is a little light on substance 

LONDON: In case you missed it, slasher films are back! Sure, it’s not quite that late Nineties/early Noughties heyday of “Scream” and “I Know What You Did Last Summer,” but they’re back, nonetheless. Because it’s 2024, though, the humble slasher now rarely exists in its original form. Rather, an increasing number of writers and directors are fusing the tropes of classic slasher films with other genres. “Freaky” added body-swap magic to the mix, “Happy Death Day” was part-slasher, part-“Groundhog Day,” and “It’s A Wonderful Knife” blended Christmas classic with horror comedy. 

So it’s no real surprise to learn that Netflix’s uninspiringly named “Time Cut” is a time-travel-meets-slasher-meets-nostalgia-romp which sees “Outer Banks” star Madison Bailey play Lucy, a high-school student inadvertently transported back in time to 2003, just days before her sister Summer (“Ginny & Georgia” star Antonia Gentry) was murdered by an unknown serial killer. 

Director and co-writer Hannah MacPherson (working with “Freaky” and “It’s A Wonderful Knife” writer Michael Kennedy) leans heavily into the nostalgia, draping the smalltown-America setting with velour tracksuits, Sony Discmans and a soundtrack that includes Vanessa Carlton, Wheatus, Hilary Duff, Avril Lavigne. And dial-up modems, much to Lucy’s disgust. There’s a joke or two to be had at the foibles of the time period, but, to be honest, the world was pretty good back then, so some of the more pointed sneers feel a little unnecessary. 

And it’s not MacPherson’s last odd decision. Despite the best efforts of the two fairly likable leads, “Time Cut” feels largely populated by cookie-cutter characters who represent the worst of some pretty dated stereotypes — sending up boorish jocks, disconnected parents and cliquey high schoolers feels a little mean-spirited.  

And, for a film with a surprising amount of attention on the mechanics of time travel, there seems scant regard for how it actually works. Rather, there’s a series of unimaginative (and relatively tame) kills, a predictable villain, and no real big idea — unless you count ‘Wouldn’t it be funny to send a teenager from 2024 back to a time when her iPhone doesn’t work?’ 


Pakistani teen captivates social media with intricate leaf art

Pakistani teen captivates social media with intricate leaf art
Updated 06 November 2024
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Pakistani teen captivates social media with intricate leaf art

Pakistani teen captivates social media with intricate leaf art
  • Kamran Khan, 19, specializes in making intricate designs, patterns and portraits on dried leaves
  • Artist says social media has played “huge role” in expanding his outreach, he also takes orders online

PESHAWAR: A young Pakistani artist based in the northwestern Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province has captivated social media with his unusual canvas: plant leaves. 
From a small corner in Peshawar city’s bustling Storytellers’ Market, popularly known as Qissa Khwani Bazaar, Kamran Khan carves intricate portraits on delicate leaves, blending tradition with artistry and earning a growing online fan base.
Originally from Bajaur in Pakistan’s tribal belt, the 19-year-old artist moved to Peshawar for his education and livelihood and is now a third-semester political science student at the city’s historic Islamia College. While he has to balance his studies and a small family business he helps run, he also finds moments in between to pursue his passion.
“I have been doing art and drawing since childhood, but then I thought of taking it in a new direction to make it more unique,” he told Arab News in an interview this week. “I started practicing leaf art. I watched a video from where I decided to adopt the idea since it felt different.”

Pakistani artist Kamran Khan speaks during an interview with Arab News in Peshawar on October 31, 2024. (AN Photo)

Khan specializes in leaf carving, carefully etching designs and images into the surface of leaves, often using blades to create detailed scenes and portraits. The process requires a firm hand, patience and precision to avoid damaging the delicate structure of the leaf. He also uses a special kind of leaf that is dried for two days before it is ready to be used. 
The artist has made hundreds of portraits and designs, including images of politicians, artists, tribal elders, celebrities and world leaders.
Carving the logo of Arab News, he said, “I have sketched many leaders. I made the sketch of [Saudi Crown Prince] Mohammed bin Salman and uploaded its video on TikTok.”

This photo, taken on October 31, 2024, shows Pakistani artist Kamran Khan’s artwork featuring Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman, during an interview with Arab News in Peshawar. (AN Photo)
 

Social media had played a “huge role” in expanding his outreach, Khan said. 
“I take orders [to create art] using social media platforms, from TikTok, Instagram and Facebook,” he said. “International orders also come in, often requesting videos only. Orders are also placed for leaf art in physical frames, and we can adjust to both.”
Khan’s dedication was rewarded when a piece featuring Maryam Nawaz Sharif, a Pakistani politician who became the chief minister of Punjab after the last general elections, caught her attention.

In this photo, taken and released by Punjab Chief Minister office on October 9, 2024, shows Punjab Chief Minister Maryam Nawaz receives artwork, featuring her portrait, created by Kamran Khan in Lahore. (Photo courtesy: Facebook/Maryam Nawaz)

“I made a video of Maryam Nawaz’s sketch, and then she picked up my [work] from the social media platform and invited me over,” he added. “When we reached the CM House in Lahore to meet her, she appreciated [my work] and gave me a cash prize.”
Sharing his future plans, he said that he wanted to represent Pakistan on the world stage.
“I strive to promote our province and culture through this art,” he said, “and would love to represent my country Pakistan as well.”