TORONTO: Ismawan Kosasih Dzabir brings more than two decades of experience to his role as chef de cuisine at Andaliman, the Indonesian restaurant at One&Only One Za’abeel in Dubai. Born in Indonesia, he has worked across properties including The Westin Jakarta and JW Marriott Marquis City Centre in Qatar. At KAUM in Jakarta, his kitchen took home two Foodies awards in 2018. He also won an “Iron Chef”-style crab-cooking competition and a Time Out Doha Favorite Brunch award in 2022.
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
New dishes always gave me the most trouble. Creativity is always challenging, because you have to give the right direction and tell the story before you plate and serve to the guest. You need to keep trying until you get the best results.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Cook from your soul and express yourself through your dish. It should make you happy, and then the people around you will enjoy it too. Cooking is like art: there are no limits and you keep learning.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
Caviar. It instantly elevates a dish, bringing a unique combination of salinity, texture, and luxury that very few ingredients can replicate. The gentle pop of each pearl adds a subtle burst of umami, while its natural brininess enhances and balances flavors without overpowering them. And caviar also adds a visual and emotional element because people immediately associate it with refinement and indulgence.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
I try to fully enjoy the experience as a guest rather than analyze every detail. I believe it’s important to switch off that critical mindset and appreciate the moment. That said, I naturally observe and learn, paying attention to flavor, presentation and service.
What’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants?
I can’t single out food, service or environment specifically, but all three are very important to the harmony of a restaurant. If one of them is missing or has failed, the restaurant can’t run as it should, because it has failed to meet guests’ expectations.
What’s your favorite cuisine or dish to order?
Grilled chicken, or any kind of barbecue dish. It’s about the simplicity and honesty of the cooking — good barbecue really showcases technique, control of fire and quality of ingredients. It also brings a sense of comfort and nostalgia. Many of my best memories have been around grilled food with family and friends. It’s not just the dish itself, but the experience of sharing it, that makes it my go-to choice.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
Nasi goreng. It’s fast and always satisfying. I can adapt it based on whatever ingredients are available, and it delivers bold, familiar flavors every time, while also connecting me to my roots. For dessert, I enjoy making homemade ice cream or cookies. They’re relatively quick, comforting to my daughter, and baking with her is a way to relax and create memories together.
What customer request most frustrates you?
When a guest requests a dish without garlic, onion and sauce. That just makes it a different dish.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
During Eid al-Adha, I always make beef satay marangi and beef soup to share with family. These dishes are very special to me because they represent tradition, generosity and togetherness. Growing up, food was always at the center of any celebration, so those recipes carry that emotional connection. Cooking both these dishes is about continuing a tradition, bringing people together and creating new memories.
As a leader, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Do you shout a lot? Or are you more laid back?
I believe in being disciplined but supportive. I set clear expectations, maintain structure through timelines and checklists, and ensure everyone understands their role. I don’t believe in shouting to get results. Instead, I focus on calm communication and leading by example, especially during high-pressure situations. Mistakes are part of growth, so I use them as teaching moments rather than punishment. Motivation comes from building trust, recognizing effort, and creating an environment where the team feels proud of what they produce. A strong kitchen is not just about skill; it’s about teamwork, respect and consistency.
Chef Ismawan’s Nasi bule:
Chef Ismawan’s Nasi bule. (Supplied)
Coconut Rice
Ingredients:
200g jasmine rice
150g fresh coconut milk
50g water
25g lemongrass
10g galangal
10g ginger
1g bay leaves
1g salt
Method:
Cook the rice with coconut milk, adding all the herbs to the pot, until the coconut milk is absorbed.
Season with salt to taste.
Once done, remove the rice from the pot, transfer to a bowl and steam at 100 degrees for 30 to 40 minutes.
Pepper mix
Ingredients:
25g black pepper
25g white pepper
25g Andaliman pepper (Batak pepper)
Method:
Mix all the peppers together and crush using a food processor.
Assembly
Ingredients:
200g beef tenderloin
150g coconut rice
75g pepper mix
50g cucumber salad (cucumber, shallot and chili, toasted with salt, pepper and lime juice)
20g sambal hijau (also known as sambal ijo)
Method:
Rub the tenderloin with the pepper mix.
Grill over charcoal to medium or cook in an oven at 200 degrees for 5 to 7 minutes.
Serve with coconut rice, cucumber salad and sambal hijau, with lime wedges on the side.
