IN Cairo, you can see the country’s traditions by simply wandering through the streets and this is especially true during the holy month of Ramadan. Throughout the capital, streets, shops and even five-star hotels are illuminated with colorful lights and traditional lanterns. Made in all sizes, and mostly imported from China, the lantern once crafted exclusively in Egypt, still remains the most visible sign of Ramadan. Lanterns hang from balconies, dangle across the streets, light up doorways, and decorate homes and shops.
People in Egypt also buy traditional food items for Ramadan. Dates are omnipresent, especially dried dates. Dates soaked in milk, a healthy and wholesome beverage, is one of the most popular drinks taken to break the fast in Egypt.
Dried fruit such as apricots, raisins, prunes, figs and nuts are also sought after. They make up the ingredients for another typical recipe: The khorshaaf, a dried fruit compote. Although dried fruit is found in all supermarkets and grocery stores, one can truly feel the typical atmosphere of Ramadan by wandering across the streets of Al-Hussein and other picturesque alleys in Dokki, Imbaba and Downtown. Vendors pile up mouthwatering mounts of glistening and juicy prunes, plump figs and fiery apricots in a timeless setting. It is easy to travel in time and imagine Ramadan throughout the ages in these places seeped in history.
As the time for Iftar approaches, traffic reaches its peak. People are either lethargic or edgy due to the lack of caffeine, nicotine and food. Pastry shops are invaded by latecomers in a hurry to buy ‘kunafa’ shredded pastry filled with cream or nuts, ‘qatayef ‘ fluffy pancakes filled with clotted cream or nuts and ‘basboussa’ a semolina cake — all popular desserts during the whole month of Ramadan.
As people wait to hear the adhan, the call for the Maghrib prayer, shops close one after the other. Inside their homes families are glued to their television sets but outside, in all corners of Cairo, from the poor districts to the affluent ones, tables are set up in the streets, ready to serve free Iftars to the poor and the needy. These ‘Mawaaed Al-Rahman’ are becoming increasingly popular year after year. People prefer to distribute food rather than to give money. This special kind of catering has developed into a lucrative business. Restaurants all over the city specialize in the preparation of pre-packaged food for Iftar. This year for a modest sum of ten Egyptian pounds (about SR7), a typical Iftar meal presented in an aluminum box includes a portion of chicken or meat served with rice, vegetables, salad and a dessert.
Many people, however, point out that in the past, there were no free Iftars for the poor. ‘Mawaaed Al-Rahman’ is a new phenomenon in Egypt. In the old days the waqf or endowment system provided food and shelter for the poor the whole year round and not only during one month.
The firing of the cannon, Madfaa, resonates with the call to prayer. The Madfaa Ramadan is a tradition in Egypt. It is fired at sunset to announce the end of each day’s fast. The origin of this tradition dates from the mid-nineteenth century when the ruler of Egypt, accidentally fired his new cannon in the open courtyard of the Citadel at maghrib — sunset. The people were thrilled with the ruler’s new idea to signal the end of the fast so his daughter Haja Fatma asked him to fire the cannon every day at sunset during the month of Ramadan. The original Ramadan cannon is still in the Citadel but a decade ago, experts discovered that the daily firing of the cannon threatened the structure of the neighboring buildings.
The Ramadan Tents are another Egyptian tradition. After Iftar, people gather with their families and friends for an evening of entertainment while eating and drinking special Ramadan dishes and beverages such as chick peas served in a hot and spicy broth, sahlab, a milk beverage flavored with cinnamon, mushmushiyyah, an apricot pudding filled with fried nuts. The grand majority of Egyptian families will, however, remain glued to their television sets. This year, Egypt has produced some 35 serials which are being aired on both national and satellite channels.
The great novelty is the come-back of veiled actresses. Soheir Al-Babli, after a twelve-year absence, is appearing in ‘Qalb Habiba’ (Habiba’s Heart). She confesses that she spoke with Sheikh Shaarawi before his death. He advised her to present useful programs which obeyed God’s rule. The well known Soheir Ramzi is also back with a leading role in ‘Habib Al-Roh’ (The Loved One) and Sabrine is playing a pious woman trying to put her husband back on the right path. The most awaited serial is probably ‘Awlad Al-Shaware’ (Street Children), featuring Hanan Tork, who stunned the artistic world five months ago when she decided to wear the veil.
Fasting, feasting and religious fervor characterize Ramadan in Egypt. It is a month of continuous invitations to Iftars and Suhurs. Although the majority cannot afford excesses, Ramadan remains an exceptional month. Many turn to God trying to become better Muslims. During the holy month families are often reunited. It may well be the only time of the year when parents can take a meal with all their children at the same time for a whole month.
