“I think creativity is the biggest influence in my background," she said. "I am reliant on memory of flavors and possibly the knowledge of flavors to bring a pleasing marriage of tastes to the palate where it becomes a creation. Chemistry is only to understand what and how it is happening when you combine certain elements, also the precision of weights. If the precision is not there the end result falters and you have let yourself down, which sometimes cannot be rectified”.
Before I go any further, I should add that Umm Talal not only makes jam (where the fruit is broken down during the cooking process before sugar is added) but also jelly. Her list of jams includes plum, spiced plum and pistachio, carrot, greengage, and plum and cinnamon.
Only fruits rich in pectin are suitable for making jellies, fruits such as red currants, mulberries, quinces, bilberries, apples and citrus. In the case of citrus, apples and quinces, the prepared fruit is pre-soaked with the cores and seeds collected in a knotted piece of muslin or cheesecloth and then blanched. The liquid obtained is then put through a very fine strainer and sugar, equal to the weight of the juice obtained, is added to the juice.
Umm Talal’s list of jellies includes: Red orange, apple, white grape, crabapple and, my favorite, quince with rose. Umm Talal also makes preserves with a variety of fruits: apricot, pineapple, strawberry, mango, clementine, melon and mango, apple, pear and ginger and the subtle apple and lemon flower, which has a citrus-like yet sweet flavor.
Preserves are usually made with soft fruits which are prepared then macerated in the appropriate quantity of sugar and left to stand for at least 12 to 24 hours. This draws the juices out and hardens the surface of soft fruit so that the end product has whole or large pieces of fruit in a set-jellied-medium.
“All sweet preserves depend on the freshest fruit, sugar and also, a particular balance to each fruit of acid and a natural substance pectin. Pectin is present in high, medium or low amounts depending on the fruit. This precise balance will then permit the jam to set as it cools. The essential ingredient for this magic setting point to be achieved, is the pectin” explained Umm Talal.
Umm Talal is also known for her regal chutneys. The choice is endless: Aubergine and apple, peach and ginger, courgette and pomegranate, apple, plum and onion, pear, apple and tomato, plum and date, to name but a few. Incorporated into English from Hindi-Urdu, chutney means “strong spices" and is in fact a British specialty dating from the colonial era. A combination of fruits, vegetables, sugar, vinegar, herbs and spices, this sweet-and-sour condiment has the consistency of a jam and goes well with cold cuts of meat, poultry or even fish.
Last but not least, Umm Talal prepares exquisite marmalade. Originally, marmalades were made from quinces. Marmalade first arrived in England from Portugal. It was a local conserve made from quinces and sugar known in Portuguese as marmelada, from the word "marmelo", which is Portuguese for "quince". Arab recipes were the original source of this confection in Portugal. The art of jam making began in the Middle East thanks to the presence cane sugar.
Umm Talal makes both a thick cut and a fine cut Classic Seville Marmalade as well as an Orange and Apricot Marmalade and a Spiced orange Marmalade. But since marmalades can be prepared with other citrus fruits, I am quite sure that marmalades prepared with mandarins, kumquats, lemons, limes or grapefruit will soon be available.
Jams, jellies, and marmalades are eaten with bread or toast for breakfast and tea. They are also used to accompany rice pudding, bread pudding, poached fruits, iced desserts, pancakes, waffles and to fill or cover cakes.
"The Seville marmalade added to curries deepens the flavor where chili has not been used and a fruity spicy flavor is preferred," said Umm Talal who added that “chutneys can also be used as a sandwich spread with cheese or cold sliced meat.”
When jam is set and hot sealed in sterilized jars, the sugar acts as the preserver and it can last up to five years stored in a cool cupboard. Once a jar is opened and in contact with air, it should be stored in the fridge.
Umm Talal’s success is due to the sheer goodness, originality and exclusivity of her superb preserves: “I don’t need to advertise, people who are really looking for a great jam always know how to find me!”
