SHAYAH: The house of Iranian cuisine

Shayah specializes in Iranian barbecue: skewers of grilled lamb, veal, beef, or chicken are served on a bed of rice with fire-charred tomatoes, raw onions and raw egg and known as “chelow kebab.”
Iranian-style kebabs with their emphasis on yogurt-based marinades, turn up as far west as the Balkans and as far-east as Bangladesh. They inspired “Greek Souvlaki” and “Indian Tandoori.” “Tandoori” was imported by the Moguls, Persian rulers who brought Islam to northern Indian in the 17th Century.
Lengthy marinating is one of the cornerstones of Iranian grilling. The basic marinade consists of yogurt, lemon or lime juice, onion, garlic, saffron, pepper and salt. Sometimes candied orange peel is added for a touch of sweetness and olive oil is used instead of yogurt especially for beef and veal.
Iranians marinate their meats much longer; up to two or three days is not uncommon. A two or three day soak in an acidic yogurt and lemon juice marinade does not only break down tough meat fibers but it also infuses the meat with an incomparable flavor. Another characteristic of Iranian grilling is the basting mixture, brushed on the meat while it cooks. The basic formula includes lime juice, saffron, and melted butter. The saffron gives the meat a golden glow and the mixture as a whole keeps the meat moist and tender.
Incidentally, Iranians have developed highly distinctive skewers: long, flat ribbons of steel of varying widths with pointed tips for easy penetration. The widest skewers measuring ½ to 1 inch across are designed for holding ground meat.
Shayah’s menu features “Shashlik,” a form of shish kebab very popular in Eastern Europe. In Iranian cuisine, large chunks of meat are used for “Shashlik” whereas other kinds of shish kebab are prepared with medium-size meat cubes.
My favorite kebab is “Kabab Koobideh.” This particular kebab like the Lebanese “kafta” is made with ground lamb or beef but that is where the comparison stops. Whereas, the Lebanese add chopped parsley and chopped onions to the ground meat, the Iranian add an egg, chopped onions and salt and pepper.
“Joojeh Kabab” is also featured on the menu. This particular kebab is popular in Iran; it is most delicious when it is prepared with tender young chicken. Joojeh kabab is usually made with skinless and boneless chicken breast. The secret of a juicy and flavorful joojeh kebab lies in the yoghurt based marinade which also contains olive oil, lemon juice, grated onion, saffron and salt and pepper. I personally prefer a more lemony and zesty joojeh kebab.
Shayah’s menu also features the “Sultani” and “Bakhtiary Kebab” and there is even a tasty fish kebab if you do not feel like eating meat.
“Chelow Kebab” is a simple dish which depends on the perfection of the basic elements, meat and rice, which are melded into a culinary delight. No matter what kind of kebab you order, the rice is considered the most important element of the dish.
Iranian rice is aromatic, hard-grained and almost without equal. However, Basmati rice remains the nearest and certainly the best substitute.
“Chelow” refers to plain rice served as an accompaniment to a stew or kebab while Polo is rice mixed with something. To make a “Chelow”, you need to soak the rice in salted water and boil it for a few minutes. The parboiled rice is then drained and returned to the pot to be steamed. This method results in a superb fluffy rice where each rice grain is separated and not sticky.
Incidentally “Chelow Ta Dig” is the name of the famous steamed crusty rice. “Ta Dig” which means literally “bottom of the dish” refers to the golden rice crust created at the bottom of the pot and which is placed, browned side up, beside the fluffy rice. The crusty crunchy golden brown rice is a unique rice-eating experience.
Traditionally, “Chelow” is served with a dollop of butter, and a generous dusting of sumac (dried, crushed berries of sumach tree with a sour, lemony flavor). If you like Lebanese food, you must have tasted sumac because it is sprinkled on the well-known “fattoush”, a mixed salad made with toasted or fried bread. Finally a chelow would not be a “Chelow” without a raw egg yolk which should be stirred immediately into the steaming hot rice for a regal fusion of flavors complementing the grilled meat.
“Chelow Kebab” might seem rather ordinary: a simple dish of rice and grilled meat. But once you have tasted it, you will realize it is much, much more!

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