Camellia Sinensis or tea has literally stirred up a political storm over a teacup in pre-election India. Tea is the most popular national beverage and has been intricately linked to the nation’s rich cultural tradition since the early 19th century.

Though, on a per capita basis Indians drink less tea than some other nationalities, this light-colored infusion undoubtedly is the unofficial national drink of India with millions dying to savor the heavenly taste both indoor and outdoor. In fact getting engaged in emotional and animated debate at roadside tea stall gatherings can safely be declared as a favorite pastime of Indians, especially those living in the eastern flanks of the country. And this national passion for the world famous aromatic drink is now being exploited politically to reach out to the common man before the all-important general election slated for May this year.

In fact, the opposition Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) is determined to make good use of their prime ministerial aspirant Narendra Modi’s tea-vending background to reap electoral dividend in an essentially tea-crazy nation. Hence, Modi will participate in a number of interactive meet-the-people-over-tea programs across the country. But then howsoever novel this idea might be, the fact of the matter is Modi’s party has done precious little for those who are associated with tea plucking.

The condition of tea labor community is not that rosy as a substantial section has been working and living in unhygienic environment for years together. Thousands of tea plantation workers toil for extremely low wages and are faced with job insecurity.

Unfortunately, all political parties have merely paid lip services to the needs of these hapless workers and treated them as nothing more than potential vote bank. Nobody can deny that the lives of laborers in some tea estates are so grim that many even die of starvation and lack of proper health care facilities. Perhaps, wittingly or unwittingly the BJP has turned the spotlight on the darkness that exists in a tea laborer’s daily life.

The party, however, has squandered the golden opportunity given to them by the people of Darjeeling — reputed for the world’s finest brands of tea — to improve the welfare of tea garden workers. Despite having a popularly elected lawmaker from the hills, BJP unfortunately has failed to leave any worthwhile mark in the upliftment of the tea industry as a whole.

Amid the serenity of the Himalayan foothills, where dozens of women with wicker baskets slung on their back can be seen stooping among rows of tea bushes to pluck tea leaves, it is indeed very difficult to gauge the pain beneath. The pathetic condition of workers in some of the tea estates perhaps epitomizes the dark side of India’s economic success story.

Tea production in India, one must not forget, is among the largest on earth and second only to China. Moreover, India is also the biggest global consumer of this beverage and fourth top exporter. It intrigues many that the subaltern class toiling in the tea gardens for long hours does not benefit from the multi-million dollar tea industry. Tea after all is one of the oldest organized industries in India dating back more than 150 years.

The first workers union in this sector was recognized as early as 1948. And there is an interesting history behind the advent of the best quality of tea in India. Though, cultivation of tea actually started in the Brahmaputra Valley of Assam in north-eastern India after the discovery of tea leaves by Robert Bruce in 1823; Darjeeling tea — revered for its floral aroma and distinctive flavor — however owes its genesis to industrial espionage. Planned by the British East India Company and executed by a daring Scottish national Robert Fortune, tea was smuggled into Calcutta from China in a very secretive operation in the mid-nineteenth century.

To ensure that his mission was a success, Fortune had his head shaved, adopted a pigtail as per ancient Manchurian tradition and even learnt to speak Mandarin fluently. He disguised himself as a Chinese to sneak into the forbidden area of Fujian and Jiangsu province and was able to collect 20,000 saplings and seedlings of tea. These were shipped to India in Wardian cases and thereafter planted in the hilly slopes of Darjeeling, 635 kilometers north of Calcutta. Today, when the annual tea production in India has reached 1 billion kilograms and the total turnover of tea industry is expected to reach 330 billion in Indian rupees by next year, it is indeed appalling that the fate of a majority of the 3.5 million workers has remained gloomy.

Worst still, the Plantation Labor Act of 1951, which regulates the working and living condition of workers has been rather ineffective in mitigating the sufferings of these poor people. Earlier this month, Narendra Modi was in Calcutta to address a political rally but failed to mention this issue in his emotive speech. Understandably, the BJP wants to politically exploit the unique tea-habit of Indians who loll besides ragtag roadside tea stalls to enjoy a sip of a thick brew of tea mixed with milk and sugar while simultaneously joining an “everything under the sun” chat.

But why is the party mum on ailments afflicting this high revenue-earning industry? Apart from the fact that the tea industry is struggling to find new customers, the exploitation of workers can turn the picturesque tea gardens into breeding ground of ultra-left extremism. Is Modi or for that matter the political class listening?

• Seema Sengupta is a Kolkata-based journalist

and columnist.