For British people, wearing hats is an innate moral duty. It’s something that they take pride in and love to show off on big occasions. To get to know about this beautiful tradition still well-preserved and going on at full throttle in depth, we visited the 17th Century atelier in London’s St. James’s to meet an award-winning milliner Rachel Trevor-Morgan (from where she operates her business) who is often called upon by the British Queen to design gorgeous hats for her.

In an exclusive interview with Arab News, she shares with us how her love of hats started, what it means to her and much more.

She originally thought she would like to study theater costume or set design. But in due course she came to realize that her mother had lots of hats which she wore during several prestigious events. And it wasn’t long before she delved into hat making to make a good career out of it. “Somehow the dramatic factor surrounding millinery appealed to me. As soon as I discovered this niche area of design, there was no turning back. There is more artistic license in millinery and such a variety of beautiful materials and texture that you can experiment with providing endless inspiration,” she says.

Creating hats is everything she cares about so much so that her life revolves around them 24/7. She is constantly thinking about new designs or about the next collection. “I wouldn’t be a hat designer if the constant passion and enthusiasm were lacking. I think hats are such an important accessory. They can give confidence to the wearer and are an extension of your overall personality. I also love the craft and the breadth of design possibilities,” says Rachel Trevor.

In her mind there was no such thing like going to fashion school of any kind to learn the fine art of making hats. Instead, she actually preferred to do apprenticeships which turned out to her advantage. “I learnt my craft in Graham Smith’s studio and then went on to gain further experience in Philip Somerville’s shop. Graham taught me to respect the design and making process from start to finish. Whether it was sewing in labels or actually producing a hat from the beginning, every stage needs to be carefully and precisely carried out,” she points out. “This is the ethos I continue to follow to date, and what I’m known for.”

Her hats make you ogle incessantly at the tremendous craftsmanship and precision with which she executes them. This invincible and unmatched excellence has won Rachel Trevor a wide range of clients who appreciate her work and designs. “My hats are treated like works of art and I think when ladies wear them, they become part of that creation. Every element of the hat is made in our small studio in London and doesn’t get given to the client until it achieves its complete perfection,” she says.

Talking about hats’ formation, there is no reason not to be surprised about why they stand out waving in full glory. After all, she is best known for her soft, feminine, elegant hats and headpieces embellished with signature feather and flowers. “Each piece is perfectly crafted and balanced. All of the flowers on our hats are handmade in-house, each petal is hand cut, dyed and shaped,” explains Rachel Trevor. “By making all the trimmings in our studio we can ensure a unique look for each client which has been designed especially for them.”

For any brand big or small, clients’ satisfaction is a must and comes first. If it’s best implemented, the rest gets assured without ever bothering about it. This is what she works on with great fervor so that her clients get what they want. “When a client visits the showroom, I always encourage them to try a range of styles in order to see what suits best. Many ladies need words of encouragement to try on pieces they never would consider in their wildest dreams,” she says. “You have to take into account the personality of the client as well as the occasion to which the hat is being worn. It’s a journey that we both take together. It’s an inseparable bond at the end of the day.”

For Rachel Trevor digging up details such as visualizing a woman’s figure does have its plus point because of which it needs greater attention. “Proportion and balance are the key elements to a successful look. I like to take my time to think about the overall look for a client. I visualize how the client will feel wearing my hat for a number of occasions for which I always go with my instinct,” she reckons.

On the whole, these hats are aimed at a variety of women, but mostly she finds her ladies to be confident and sure of their style. “They are mostly women attending big occasions such as race meets and weddings,” she says.

Besides, she added another feather in her cap by launching her first bridal headdress collection in 1997, later for which she won the Headdress Designer Award at the Brides British Bridal Awards.

Traces of inspiration

There isn’t any one medium that she gets driven by. In fact, she draws it from everywhere she can; the latest catwalk shows, Hollywood films or simply walking past a florist and seeing a beautiful bouquet of flowers. “As I work so closely with my bespoke clients and every design is unique, I’m often inspired by them; an outfit they’ve worn or an idea we’ve developed together–I regularly have people in mind when creating collections,” she refers.

Many people in life rely upon their role models dead or alive who they think had or have something unique to relate to and can help them succeed along the way. In her case though, it’s a bit different story. “I don’t have particular role models. I often take inspiration from the 40s and 50s when hats were considered de rigueur,” she says.

Lineup of collections

The idea behind any collection of hers isn’t a predetermined one. It could come flying anytime. More so, her collections always evolve from one another. There might be a new shape or silhouette she wants to try out, sometimes a color might be her latest obsession although it might change from season to season and she runs with the design process to see where it leads. “But I do love bright pops of color highlighting the classic more tonal colors like black, nude and dusty pink. It’s always hard to choose a favorite,” she admits.

When it comes to using fabrics, she loves working with a wide variety of fabrics providing they are the best quality and absolutely fine. “We use straws, felts, silk taffeta and feathers mostly,” says Rachel Trevor.

Even though she has been adorning Her Majesty the Queen with her hats since 2006, it was in 2014 when she was finally granted The Royal Warrant of Appointment. “It’s a fantastic honor and privilege to be granted the Royal Warrant. It’s a life changing moment to have the highest approval possible that you can hope for,” she expresses delightfully.

The other members of the Royal Family who just love to put on her hats include the Duchess of Cambridge, the Countess of Wessex and Princess Alexandra who all have had bespoke pieces made.

With this marvelous artistry, she has been able to capture the imagination of people whether be it in Ireland, US or Japan where her hats are constantly supplied to the boutiques over there. Her creations are always housed in London’s top glitzy retailers like Harrods and Selfridges because of customers’ growing demand.

Reflecting on her extraordinary journey since the launch of her brand back in the 90s, she said, “Every day I learn something new, and add it to my wealth of experience. I believe that the journey is just as important as the end destination.”

Millinery culture is an eternal part of British life. “Millinery and British identity go hand in hand. We have such wonderful events here in the UK and it’s important that we don’t lose the art of hat wearing,” she calls for.

As for the future plans for the brand, she has clearly thought through and is keenly working on its expansion. “I’m always looking to further my reputation and grow the brand. We recently started a diffusion line for Jacques Vert which has been well received and is also available at Debenhams in the UAE and Kuwait. The unknown is always exciting,” she says.

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