Jewelry holds a special place in all cultures for they are a symbol of status. They can be molded in different shapes and sizes accordingly to beautify a woman’s elegance. That said the real benchmark of it everywhere begins with the precise cutting which requires a great deal of expertise. In retrospect, this is where Britain proudly rules the roost as it is home to some of the finest jewelry designers you can find in the world whose clientele are spread across the globe.
One of them is a renowned London-based designer Stephen Webster who is particularly known for his inventiveness in fine-tuning the ‘modern imagery’ along with the traditional craftsmanship making sure it never fades away. Besides, there is much more to his designs that strike a chord with so many.
And if you are seriously looking for pieces that capture the royal splendor, he is the one to go to.
In an exclusive interview with Arab News, we sit down with him to find out how his journey began and what makes his designs so sought-after.
His proclivity toward jewelry wasn’t something he intended to take up and ultimately make it his career. It all happened by accident. “I was going to study fashion design at the Medway College in Kent and by chance walked into a jewelry design class rather than the fashion design room. The flames, noise, chemicals and shiny objects were instantly appealing and right up my alley than fashion design. I guess it was a good choice as 39 years later I’m still at it,” he says.
In fact, whatever time he spent at Medway College did help him learn his craft in the right way. “It was invaluable in helping me to learn my craft, however very soon after my apprenticeship I took a job designing and making jewelry for a store in Canada. The owner was a kind of Indiana Jones of the gem world,” he says.
He spent his time in mining areas in far-flung regions across Afghanistan, Pakistan, Brazil, Namibia, etc. “He would then return to my workshop with piles of big fat gems which is exactly where I would take over,” recollects Webster. “Inspired by the colors and the exotic places from which they came, from that time on my jewelry was always going to be big, bold and colorful.”
His exquisite pieces go on mesmerizing celebrities and fashionistas alike because of two factors; that they are high on innovatory and are unreservedly cool. “It has always been my passion to cultivate jewelry collections that push all creative boundaries. All of my work is a reflection of my personality. I’m fortunate that I have selfishly pursued topics and inspirations from my life’s experiences and translated them into our many collections,” he says gladly. “Within all of them, there is an unmitigated flow of vibrancy.”
One gets easily awed by his designs (swathed in feathers and plumages) that reinforce the maximalist view he harbors. And he doesn’t even think about compromising on it at all as he points out, “Even now, when I’m getting excited about a gem it will instantly translate into the design of a collection. Music is a strong influence for me as is the view of the sea from my house in St. Margaret’s Bay overlooking the White Cliffs of Dover. For something like my ‘Jewels Verne’ collection I looked into the ocean and saw more jewels. The ocean is a very authentic reference for me.”
While some don’t like to get into the details of how an important role celebrities play in promoting their merchandise, there are others who just commend what they do for their labels. “I can’t help but praise these influential stars whenever they have worn my label. Celebrity association has been a key component to the communication of our brand. Our pieces have been worn by Elizabeth Taylor, Madonna, Jennifer Lopez, Beyoncé, Elton John and Jay Z amongst others,” he says.
Since music has always been a mirror of inspiration behind most of his emblematic designs, he is elated that a lot of music stars have embraced his jewelry. Other sources of his inspiration generally come from the objects, sights and people around him. This can be as varied as the film noir, architecture, broken glass, nature, even David Bowie, a great songwriter!
Women expect a lot from their ornamental pieces. When asked what women should be looking for in jewelry, he said, “A woman should be prepared for any occasion with her jewelry. Sometimes, the jewelry itself comes prepared. We always include in our collections earrings which can be shortened, lengthened or indeed converted and these are hugely popular.”
While his creations are in huge demand among the sophisticated youths, the elderly people’s interest in Stephen Webster is no less high. “Our customer surprises even the very experienced retailers such as Neiman Marcus who have labeled us the “18 – 80” brand. I have no problem with this. I just love seeing women and men of all ages, shapes and sizes wearing our pieces with confidence and pleasure,” he smiles. “Someone with character will always be my choice over just beauty but I am happy with both.”
When it comes to sourcing the stones, he prefers Tanzanite from Tanzania, Fire Opal from Mexico and Tourmalines from Brazil.
There is no denying that his design mantra is way different from other designers working in the same field. It’s so because at one point of time he believed that he was only interested in creative jewelry and also because he had this understanding that much of the jewelry industry was detached from the fun world of creativity as he explains, “For this reason, to establish a brand such as ours has been a struggle but against all odds we have achieved so much without ever compromising. The way people view modern jewelry is in part due to designers such as ourselves who have continued to create contemporary designs in what’s still believed to be a very conservative business.”
As the Middle East turns out to be another big hub of high-end luxury lifestyle, all famous brands are opening their showrooms to cater to the demands of people living here. “Middle Eastern shoppers are very brand conscious and well-traveled. With our global presence we greet many Middle Eastern clients in our flagship stores in London and Beverly Hills and of course home territory of Saudi Arabia, Dubai and Lebanon,” he says.
Arab women’s taste in jewelry is very refined. They love to buy magnificent pieces. “Generally, one of the main distinctions between different countries is the color combinations requested,” he admits. “We sell a lot of green hues in Asia, reds in Russia and purples in America. But I always look forward to special commissions from the Middle East — they are never dull. Rather, they are very special.”
For him, work means taking initiatives to do something outstanding. To do so, he is moving on with the idea of diversification as he looks forward to expanding his brand outreach. “I’m planning to develop new categories such as sunglasses, accessories, watches as well as new jewelry collections,” he says. “I wait for new projects each week to keep alive the patina of my brand. You know variety is the spice of life.”
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Stephen Webster: Of music, maximalism and Madonna



