Your idea of an abaya designer could be a bit too mainstream if you thought that a foreigner couldn’t have done it. Manchester-born abaya designer Zatasha Kiran is not new to Saudi society and culture. During her nine years in Jeddah, she developed a passion for fashion design and more specifically designing abayas.

She would spend hours in material shops choosing different fabrics, mixing and matching different colors. Although it started as a hobby, Kiran decided to combine her love for fashion design and photography to style her own abayas.

Unlike most abaya designers, Kiran loves pushing the boundaries and thinking outside the box whilst maintaining a simplistic look when it comes to her collections. If not for pastels, there’s always a pop of color!

1. Tell us a little about yourself.

I’m a British national living in Jeddah. My family moved here for work almost 10 years ago and we have been here ever since. I’m a certified English language teacher by day and I have this abaya business on the side.

2. And a little about your brand.

The brand specializes in abayas or cloaks/kaftans as some would say.

At the moment we are a small local brand and sell by made-to-order purchases and also at small local boutiques and bazaars but we are definitely looking to expand.

3. I love your Cotton Candy collection, which basically comes in pastel colors. It brings about a new trend in abayas for women in Saudi Arabia, especially because the common colors for abayas are dark and usually black. What was the inspiration behind this collection?

Even though color is becoming more popular, I’ve noticed a lot of people here still like to stick to darker colors on a daily basis and although I like at least a pop of color somewhere in my designs, I tried to incorporate the element of darker tones in this collection too. I also like the more simplistic look so have stuck to a clean cut basic style and focused more on fabrics and tones.

4. What makes your abayas unique?

The uniqueness of our abayas is that they can be custom-made to your taste. You can change colors, fabrics and even styles if you like. We also use the best quality fabrics and try to deliver friendly, efficient service to ensure a secure customer base.

5. How do you start working on a specific collection? How do you decide what idea or theme you will use for each collection?

I’m inspired by global fashion and also work around the wants and needs of the customer. Samples of each collection are made in advance and tried and tested with friends, family and our customer base before it’s decided on. A lot of different factors and brainstorming go into deciding on a new collection.

6. Do your personal experiences as a British woman reflect in your designs?

Growing up as a western Muslim in a large community I was always led to believe that hijab and modesty is only black or dark clothes but after moving to Jeddah I realized that it’s a lot more than that. You can be modern and fashionable whilst still being modest and covering your body by incorporating different colors, styles of hijab and also by accessorizing. I wanted to interpret that into my brand concept by choosing bright fun colors that are eye-catching as well as flattering whilst maintaining the element of modesty. I also wanted them to be something that is versatile and can be easily worn as an abaya or a kaftan/dress.

7. Were you always interested in fashion design? How did you come about designing abayas?

I’ve almost had an eye for fashion and designing, and would always design my own clothes and abayas when possible. I started my brand as more of a hobby than anything else and it grew from there.

8. What kind of fabrics/materials do you use to make your abayas? What material do you enjoy working with the most?

I love light, flowy, summer-friendly materials. I work with a lot of cottons, georgettes and silks.

9. What is your personal style philosophy?

Simplistic, clean cut and something that makes a statement. I like pastels and neutrals combined with a pop of color.

10. What challenges do you usually encounter as an abaya designer?

The abaya fashion industry is huge and the competition is strong. Creating unique designs takes a lot of time, effort and brainpower. A lot of the time you notice that one brand has introduced a new idea and before you know it everyone else is doing the same. The challenge is being able to bring fresh ideas to the table and also maintaining that element of the traditional modest abaya.

11. What is your advice to budding fashion designers?

Don’t be afraid to show your personal style through your collections. If you love something and believe in it, don’t hold back. And also, be smart and know what it is that your customer wants.

12. Brief us about your latest collection.

The latest collection, Inside Out, is a double sided cotton/georgette abaya. We went for summery bright colors paired with dark colors to cater to the demands of our customers. It can be worn both ways, one side is a more casual look with pockets and the other side is a softer, more luxurious georgette fabric. You can mix and match the colors as you like.

13. How has the sense of fashion in Saudi Arabia changed over the nine years of your stay in the Kingdom?

Abaya fashion in general has become a lot bolder. Years ago when I came here it wasn’t common to see any type of colored abaya, even dark colors. The main color of choice was always black. Nowadays, people are experimenting more with colors and prints, which I love.

14. You’re aware that the luxury brand Dolce & Gabbana (D&G) launched its very own abaya line last year, but not all Arab designers were impressed. What are your thoughts on it?

Honestly, I was highly disappointed in the lack of creativity in their abayas. The fabrics, styles and colors used were totally outdated and not eye-catching at all. Many people commented that you can find nicer things in the local markets here, which I agree with. Having said that, I think it was thoughtful of them to try and appeal to the Muslim audience and I hope that they do better next time round.

15. How can people find and purchase your abayas?

At the moment we are only available online. Our Instagram page is @zkofficial_ and e-mail [email protected]

16. How would you describe your abaya brand in three words?

Simplistic, eye-catching and modern.

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