Dubai: Region’s gold capital

I have written about Dubai during the past few years both in English and Arabic. But each time I visit the city I find something new and attractive to write on.
The first thing that drew my attention as I reached the arrival lounge of the airport last week was the presence of hundreds of people at different counters. Some awaiting the issuance of visas. This particularly happens when a large number of passengers from the subcontinent arrive here forcing authorities to open special counters to handle them. With so many people thronging the counters one fears there would be endless delays that one will have to cope with patiently until his/her turn comes.
But as soon as we joined the queue I heaved a sigh of relief as I saw nearly 40 manned counters catering to the deluge of passengers with lightning speed that reminded me of Tokyo and London airports, which increase the number of counters whenever the need arises.
Out of the airport building there was the usual traffic congestion especially during the peak hours. But proper management helped in easing the situation with the help of traffic cops and cameras that deterred errant motorists from violating traffic rules. Penalties can be tough so it is better to adhere to the law which is enforced there strictly.
When I first arrived in the city in the late sixties I stayed in what was then the best hotel facing the creek — the Carlton. Behind it lay the city but you had to walk through sand to reach the downtown area. The city then was already popular with the Indians now forming the largest segment of the foreign population. Altogether Dubai now has over two million people and growing. The older part called Deira has expanded but is giving way to new Dubai which was called Bur Dubai or the hinterland during the time of the founder Sheikh Rashed. At present it is one of the most modern cities of the world with skyscrapers, finest malls and amusement parks with the result that Dubai in general attracts hundreds of thousands of Arabs especially Saudis now that Cairo and Beirut are out of bounds and London the "old favorite" is relatively expensive and boring. Of course Dubai is warm during the summer but then who bothers to walk in the sun when the fifty magnificent malls are fully air-conditioned with restaurants almost packed day and night. Furnished flats are expensive but not for families deciding to stay there instead of the many five-star hotels or the seven-star one called Burj Al Arab. There is a new one called Atlantis which is described as somewhere between five and six stars. In both architecture, color, location and fabulous services and restaurants it is mind-boggling.
Most hotels are booked and it is advisable to reserve a room or rooms well in advance. With so many of them in demand they do not advertise in the press. Since I prefer to stick to my old hotel, the Hyatt Regency in Deira, I am well treated and have rarely been told to try again. It is a five-star outfit facing the sea and comes complete with swimming pool which I now seldom use and a superb Iranian restaurant with male and female singers. There are two other Hyatt Regency hotels in the city doing very well indeed.
For Arab families the place is an ideal holiday resort with magnificent shopping available for most hours of day and night. Besides, if they are Saudis, the women can drive and if the moms cannot, their daughters or sons can. They feel free to go anytime anywhere without the botheration of foreign drivers. With glorious malls everywhere and great roads leading to other states they can roam, shop — till they drop as the saying goes — and eat outside the hotels and furnished apartments to their satisfaction.
For families from India Dubai is a city of gold because it is packed with gold jewelers who cater to the millions of Indians by selling 22-carat gold. In fact Dubai is the world's largest importer and seller of 22-carat gold led by Indian merchant Joy Alukas of Kerala. With imports of over 500 tons, that is five hundred thousand kilos a year, an annual turnover of 25 billion dirhams and nearly a thousand jewelry shops, with no taxes, low import duties and high turnovers, Dubai is claimed to be the cheapest market in the world for buying gold. Other countries in the region import a huge quantity from it on a regular basis. The display of gold is bewildering and I have seen hordes of women including non-Asians spellbound by the glitter and the show of wealth that would have made King Midas of Greece swoon. According to legend he was mesmerized by gold and wished everything he touched turn into gold. When even his son turned into gold he died of shock.
Children, accompanying their parents especially mothers and sisters, have everything for their entertainment as the malls are always there to cater to their needs, if not exactly inside Dubai then nearby. Ice Land Water Park is in Ras Al Khaimah which has 50 attractions for all age groups with the largest man-made water fall, the largest assortment of water slides, the world's largest rain dance pool and other amenities calculated to thrill everybody all day.
The list is practically endless and a three-week holiday may not be quite enough for families or singles. But then there is a price to pay unless you have made arrangements to have enough money to enjoy what is easily the most outstanding holiday resort in the Middle East.
Apart from visitors an increasing number of Arabs, Indians and Europeans have opted to buy real estate in the city state although the cost is steep but certainly not much higher than in London, Mumbai or the flourishing cities of other GCC countries. Even some Indian film stars have settled down there and keep shuttling between Mumbai and Dubai as was revealed in the press a few weeks ago.
But it is not all confined to holidaying and beaches which are the major attractions, as far as the Europeans are concerned some of whom have chosen to stay permanently given plenty of sunlight, wonderful sand and sea and freedom from taxes like in Europe. Dubai is an ideal business hub and has well organized links with the rest of the world. So if you can afford it what are you waiting for?

• Farouk Luqman is an eminent journalist based in Jeddah.
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