New deal for EU farmers is good news for food security

The image of European farmers downing tools and taking a day — or several days — off from their hard work in the fields, cowsheds, henhouses and sheep-filled meadows to head in slow-moving tractor convoys to their national capitals or the EU headquarters in Brussels is not uncommon. These demonstrations often slow traffic, block roads and, for added impact, sometimes involve releasing livestock into the streets or pelting eggs at official buildings. Farmers do this to express their frustration, even anger, that, in the food production chain, they are at the very bottom when it comes to being rewarded for their hard work and the irreplaceable role they play in sustaining our existence.

There is ample evidence of the unfair treatment farmers face. Against this backdrop, this month’s announcement that the European Parliament has adopted new measures to protect farmers from unfair trading practices by buyers of agricultural products must be seen as welcome news. The agreement introduces measures designed to rectify these imbalances by strengthening the bargaining power of farmers vis-a-vis processors, retailers and other market actors.

One of the key changes the new policy brings is a shift away from the concentration of enforcement power in Brussels. Individual member states will be able to protect their farmers by intervening to stop unfair cross-border trading practices, without requiring farmers themselves to lodge formal complaints. For the first time, stricter labeling rules for certain meat products and clearer advertising standards will be introduced. Authorities will also be able to share information more quickly through the Internal Market Information System, enabling faster, better-coordinated responses to prevent and deter unfair practices across the single market.

These measures strengthen the bargaining power of farmers vis-a-vis processors, retailers and other actors

Yossi Mekelberg

Over the centuries, as populations have moved from rural to urban areas and the number of farmers has declined, fewer people are familiar with what it takes to produce the food we consume, which we are consuming in growing quantities, not to mention wastefully. There is limited awareness of the labor involved or the financial hardship associated with working in a sector dependent on unpredictable variables: climate change; economic, domestic and international fluctuations; political instability; wars and conflicts; and rapid technological change, as well as shifting consumer preferences.

While historically a large share of the workforce was engaged in agriculture, today in Europe the sector accounts for about 9 million workers out of more than 205 million employed overall. As rural populations continue to dwindle, most people are increasingly disconnected from the agricultural community and hardly interested in learning about it.

What we do expect, however, is that supermarket shelves remain stocked with an ever-growing variety of fresh and processed food, of high quality and at affordable prices. How that food is produced and whether those who toil day and night, come rain or shine, to make sure these demands are met are fairly rewarded rarely concerns us. Instead, we sometimes hear dismissive remarks about farmers owning large swaths of land, as though this easily translates into liquid wealth, which is rarely the case. For many farmers, it is more about their connection to the land and continuing family traditions of many generations.

The EU’s decision is long overdue, as the current situation puts at risk a crucial sector that underpins food security for us all

Yossi Mekelberg

The EU’s decision is long overdue, as the current situation puts at risk a crucial sector that underpins food security for us all. A recent Ipsos study found that about half of European farmers are pessimistic about their current situation. What farmers are asking for is neither excessive nor unusual: they seek a sustainable balance between running a viable business and having a profession they can be proud of — one that is respected by society and supported by policies that help them navigate constant change and a volatile environment in more than one way.

These challenges are numerous and often difficult to reconcile. There is an inherent tension between consumers’ demand for plentiful, diverse and high-quality food and their expectation of low prices at a time when production costs are steadily rising. Environmental regulations introduced by the EU, among them reducing fertilizer use and promoting more sustainable alternatives, are no doubt necessary and beneficial for both the planet and public health. However, they also increase costs for farmers, who are not always adequately compensated. While eco-friendly practices are essential to protect biodiversity and mitigate climate change, they often come with significant compliance costs and administrative burdens that reduce profitability.

At the same time, farmers face high fuel prices, initially driven by the war in Ukraine and now exacerbated by wider geopolitical tensions. There are also inherent structural contradictions within the sector itself.

For example, cattle are among the largest agricultural sources of greenhouse gas emissions: a single cow can produce about 100 kg of methane — a harmful greenhouse gas — every year. Yet, despite some reduction in red meat consumption, demand remains high. Meanwhile, climate change, partly driven by such emissions, feeds back into the system, increasing costs through the damaging impact of droughts, floods, crop damage and livestock losses, often without adequate insurance or financial protection.

Moreover, the relentless drive for cheaper food has led manufacturers and retailers to adopt questionable practices, pressuring farmers to lower prices while increasingly relying on cheaper imports. These imports are often enabled by trade agreements with countries that do not adhere to the EU’s strict environmental and animal welfare standards. It remains to be seen whether the EU policies that have just been approved will dramatically change this. Smaller farms are particularly vulnerable and many are being squeezed out of business, with about 50 percent of agricultural land now owned by just 3 percent of farms, favoring large agribusinesses.

Governments often prioritize consumers over producers, not least because consumers represent a larger voting bloc and are directly affected by the cost of living. While regulatory reform and the elimination of unfair practices in the food supply chain are necessary, they are not sufficient. A broader cultural shift is also needed, one that moves away from overconsumption and food waste toward a greater appreciation of quality and sustainability and a willingness to pay fairer prices, while also taking into account those with low incomes to also ensure their food security.

This shift requires a better understanding of farmers’ lives and work, for instance through encouraging farm visits, supporting local producers and improving education about the food chain, all the way from field to plate. This should help encourage greater appreciation among the public. In fostering such an improved understanding, we may become more supportive of the people who ensure that our food systems continue to function without interruption and with the appreciation they deserve.

• Yossi Mekelberg is professor of international relations and an associate fellow of the MENA Program at Chatham House.

X: @YMekelberg